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Very clean car indeed. I like how the owner covers up the license plate but leaves the phone number in plain view along with the vin# in the listing. What is the point?

Care to share where it can be purchased from? Since its so safe the EPA has levied several restrictions on its sale that parts houses no longer carry it.

One side, the bulbs would light up fine when just tail lights were on or if just brakes were on. When brake lights came on with tail lights I lost a bulb and a filament on the other side. After cleaning all that stuff, all is well. Another tip that I didnt mention in that write up, put some...

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=58560&highlight=kckazdude That should fix your lighting problems.

Think of that hard-ish plastic clamps on newer Ford lower hoses and you will understand the Power Grip system. Efective sealing with a cleean look but is single use only.

Freind of mine done this swap to a 92 Toyota PU. The only problem he had was a complete lack of traction in the rear. He also did the same bed 'mod' with the rear Supra suspension. He used the gap in between as a location to mount the fuel cell. Intercooler was also moved under the truck and fan...

Why bother asking everyones advice on here and then ignore it?

Without a wideband this could all be an exercise in doing it right again.

There wouldnt any difference until sediment from the block gets deposited in the void blocking off coolant flow.

All of these adaptors are situated too long and do not have the sensor placed in the water flow properly as pictured in the first post. My tool box has about 8 different adaptors from different vendors and they all have the same fitment issue. I finally went to my local hydraulic hose fitting...

I cant tell you which valve is the one directly responsible but the valves inside your valve body are sticking. Once the fluid warms up it frees them up so they operate normally. When they cool down again the varnish sticks them in position again.

If you arent kinking your rubber line when trying to compress the clamp then you need to rebuild/replace the caliper.

You get the car posted on CL? Know where any turbo auto transmissions are?

Besides your theory being very flawed on an EFI vehicle, it is also an easy way to fry an alternator or ECM. The best case scenario is for the vehicle to just die. Read this article for a basic idea. http://www.aa1car.com/library/charging_checks.htm

:3d_frown: If that is the best advice you can give, then please dont.

I have an order confirmation on Feb 4. I have an email that was never responded to asking an ETA on the item on Feb 20. The package it was shipped in is dated for Feb 26 and arrived at my door March 3. That would make it 4 weeks for an order. Not a complete lie just off on my time from 6 months...

Orders are slow to ship and responses are even slower. You will get your order just expect it to take 6 - 8 weeks to arrive.

Best I have right now. This is a 87 Turbo auto trans car.

No it didnt just drop right in. You had to beat the lower radiator support into oblivion, cut the support lip or relocate the pins on the bottom of the radiator just to get it in. That would make it not a drop in radiator.

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=102040