Excellent! Hopefully, I'll have a few minutes to hook it up and update the software this evening.
I'm assuming the correct selection for the N/A's Fout has been appropriately labeled?
Sux, that I'm still waiting on my intake piping and couplers... I'm dying to try this out.
^^Exactly how I feel... Not the most common thing to hear around here. Hell, half the time I'm too broke to fix it right, but when I can I upgrade. I generally feel much safer with newer parts than j/y specials.
Bummer about the HG, that really sucks. Did it blow bad? ie: chocolate pudding.
The integration relay is on the back side of the j/b with the main fuse cluster in the driver's side kick panel.... it's a PITA to get at. Take out the driver's seat and remove the plastic kick panel.
Both are out presently. The fuse is a logical place to start, provided he checked both r and l connectors for voltage. Then if that's fine I'd test the foglight relay.
I've seen a couple here and there on the net. My conclusion is that cars with dark paint can get away with it... lighter cars, only if it's molded into the bumper and a friggin' great design to begin with.
It's not with the other fuses... it's on another junction block, next to the main, and closer to the door. The junction in question has mostly wiring harnesses connected to it, so you may be overlooking it... or you're not able to see around the hatch enough. Let us know if you get it.
I've taken it out once... actually I should say one of my friends with a MUCH smaller build has taken it out, using a pair of needle nose, WITH the panels in place. Personally, I don't think I could do it.
The panel is pretty easy to take off though. You need to remove the false pedal/foot...
I'm pretty sure it's in front, but it's not in the main fuse cluster, look at the junction closer to the door.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=Main&Page=15
Have you identified which cyl is going out? If not try this: Get the car running up to temp, pull one plug wire at a time off the distributor cap. Each wire you disconnect should make the engine run worse. When you pull a plug wire that doesn't make it run any worse you've got the bad cyl...
Initial setup time. My car's my DD and I don't have time to mess with the initial tuning. I may switch over in the future... Not sure. Any way about it GM MAF or MAP both flow MUCH better than an N/A AFM.
Has anyone tried using an accord intake?
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=APC&mfrpartnumber=151004K&parttype=1344&ptset=A
I need an intake pipe which will clear the distributor... My MAF won't fit in that gap and the civic intake's all seem too short. Does anyone know...
In my case it's to replace my AFM. I'm currently running on a borrowed AFM which has been "tinkered" with and runs poorly. Mine died a horrible death. I already had the MAFT Pro. I bought it some time ago when I had the $$$ for my future plans of going 1/2 NA-T. So given the option of another...
Okay, it's all installed.... now I just need to order some parts to fit the LS-1 MAF in there....
Damn that's easy to install.... now I gotta read up on all the settings.
Anyone know the Fout mode for a MK-III N/A?
NOTE: This installation has been completed and is up and running. This thread was used for working out all the various issues and bugs involved.
Please see the following thread for a clean writeup:
writeup: MAFT Pro install for 7M-GE...
^^^unless you're sticking with the GE electronics. In which case add a fuel computer.
I don't think I saw anyone mention adding an oil return to the oil pan.
Well, I might not decide to do it this weekend... but it's damned tempting. I need to figure out how to work it into my intake first. But Sundays and Mondays are the only days I could do it. If I decide to wait I'll let you know. ;)
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.