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If it's yellow and you're looking at the harness end and not something attached to the block you're probably looking at the connector for the O2 sensor.

Most of my missing coolant ended up in my catch can.

I used a rebuild kit from NAPA on mine. It was about $15 and included a new piston w/seals. It's not very hard to do. I pulled the whole master cylinder, but thinking back I don't think that's even necessary.

FYI, that's the oil pressure sender.

Anyone know of an online TSRM or a downloadable version?

^^^Agreed... Sorry to tell you but it sounds like your headgasket is blown.

It's straight forward. Disconnect the O2 sensor, pull the heat shields remove the studs (not just the nuts), remove the three nuts on the underside of the flange connecting the header to the downpipe and you're set. Take it easy when re-installing the studs in the head, watch the torque. Alot...

When I got my Supra the windshield spray pump was siezed. I tore it apart, cleaned it out and lightly sanded the sides of the two little gears with some VERY fine sandpaper. Put it all back together, crip the metal tabs back down and haven't had a problem since. Of course replacing the pump...

^^^ definitely. I've also got some cleaner for film processors which does an insane job removing anything I never expected to come off.... no residual oily feeling either.

Cruise indicator on the tach face of the 89+.... so, the flexible circuit on the backside is *slightly* different. Although there's only one scenario where it would matter.... putting a pre89 cluster in a 89+.

You may already know this, but I figure it's better to make sure the basics are covered. Most types of foam disintegrate when brought in contact with fiberglass resin. Be sure about the types of material you're using and their interactions with eachother.

Mine's been down a week... I'll be finishing up my HG tomorrow. :D

I'm with Lagged and everyone else in favor of just getting stock seals. Boost Lee, my post wasn't intended in anyway as an attack... just a word of caution for edi. You may not be planning on taking out your tals again any time soon but he *might* be planning on swapping out for some JDMs in...

Even the high density adhesive backed foam strip you can get at Home Depot works great as a replacement seal. I myself would stay away from using RTV there though... If you do too good a job cleaning up the area you apply it to getting the lights back out (if you ever need to) is going to SUCK...

Heh, I'm in the middle of doing my HG and this was one of the parts I decided to replace now and get it out of the way. My old one had shrunk 1mm and was hard as solid plastic.... That's one leak I'm going to be glad to be rid of. Anyway, mark the distributor position and pull it out. It's easy.

You might check to see if they want rastor graphics or vector. If they want vector there are a couple of us who could throw it together in Illustrator.

^^Is that a paint chip by the corner of the headlight cover? Yup, this works/adheres great. On a side note, I may try this out on my replacement bumper. Not as a permanent job, but so that I can get rid of the patchwork monstrosity currently on my car. I'm not worried about spending a...

Hell yeah! I'm so glad I'm not the only one ever to try that! :evil2: I used silicone on my old seals when I got my car... it worked great. Just make sure to give it proper time to cure. Without a doubt, new seals are ideal and inexpensive... I just bought some myself. But, if you're in a...

The Cam/Valve Cover Gaskets for our cars are not just a thin little gasket. They're rather thick formed rubber. When you get the covers off instect and clean the gaskets. Check for deformaties, cracks and brittleness. If they're in good shape, but a bit compressed, yes silicone sealant works...