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See my edits... The sensor might be used by the heater as well. I really don't know about that one. EDIT: Radiator overflow sw. is Green/black and White/black.

There are all on the chassis harness right? Looks to me like: Condensor fan wires, foglight wires, I don't know about the sensor at all, and I can't remember where I've seen the last one... I'll see if I can find something though. EDIT: I can't recall exactly but the last one reminds me of the...

I think the idle speed controller may be to blame. I'd test the CSI, TPS and AFM per the TSRM, but I'd look at the ISC first.

The key ring and dome lights are triggered by a switch mounted on the handle assembly. If the dome lights don't come on when the door is locked, and the handle is pulled check the switch.

So do it. :icon_razz I can't really see how it'd be useful to me...

Gotcha. I see the stripe on the blue wire now.

It also kinda looks like an old fashioned court house... perhaps I'll wire it into my radar detector. BTW - The thread was answered appropriately in the first couple replies... Think of the rest as a right of passage. :evil2: I think all of us who don't have an owner's manual went through...

Yup, if the blue wire's also got a black stripe. You look that up or are spending too much time on your car? :icon_razz

The wires I suggested are before the dimmer, not after it. When I say "coming out of the dimmer" I'm merely giving a way to locate them. Look it up in the TEWD. The White with green stripe is the one you really need to avoid.

When you say flexible aluminum piping only two things come to my mind: Mylar dryer duct (too many corrigations, adds a ton of turbulence), and the twist angle HVAC piping (which has too many flat edges and is still not smooth enough, again adds turbulence). Are you thinking of something else?

You can use the White(black striped) wire coming from the dimmer for your ground, a chassis ground would work fine as well. The solid green wire running to the dimmer is a switched 12v. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=Main&Page=062 Don't use the White...

Once I pulled my fan I had no problems at all. You'll just need a little extra room to tip it into place if it's as wide as the Koyo. If you're putting a fan shroud on afterward you'll probably still need to pull the fan, but you may be able to get the rad in without pulling it. The shoud wasn't...

Mind telling us exactly what color they and any stripes are? Colors easily shift on the screen. I'll grab my '88 TSRM and TEWD and see what I can dig up. Are the wires solid blue and white with a black stripe? If so, are your headlight motors working (particularly the left one)?

I believe the CSF is an easier fit than the Koyo (which I've got). You may need to remove the fan and put it back on after the rad and cowl are in. I did, sorry can't recall the thickness of the Koyo.

That makes two of us. I just sent him a PM.

Same for my dad's '93 LandCruiser and his 2003 (I think that's the year) Camry. Funny, my '71 Super Beetle's locks don't operate the windows... ROFL! Back on topic: As for the clock, have you checked all the fuses? Next step would be checking the wiring up to the clock... from there on...

If you pull the cover the there's less or no rust on the other cam lobes, then I'd suspect the water that's causing it is vapor coming up from the oil pan through the crankcase vent hose which enters right there. If that's the case, I would drain the oil and check for contamination asap.

When you unlock the car you need to turn the lock twice to unlock the passenger door as well.... that is, if it's anything like some of the newer Toyotas I've driven. It's a security feature.

It's a birdcage because 'Damn our cars fly!' :momaru: I agree it's made to look like an old radiator. When I get around to it, I'm changing mine out with a transparency that simply says "Oh Sh!t!". I figure that's equally descriptive, probably a little more readily understood and elicits the...

Dry lubricants are highly recommended for locks. It doesn't give metal particles (worn from the wafers, key, cylinder and housing) anything to sludge up with. A very good write up. While you've got the lock apart put the cylinder back in the housing with the wafers removed. Check for...