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Sorry, yes, academics aside now. I concur. I too think it is most likely his alternator. Neo, sorry for turning your thread into a technical discusison.

Wow, I wouldn't have thought that was wide enough. Did he have to modify it? Here's another place with them: http://market.autopartsfair.com/acura-exterior_parts/catalog-item-13109.html Nice price too.

Yeah, it's the one that connects to the surge tank on the upper intake plenum. It's commonly referred to as the "Y" pipe bacause it branches off before entering the upper intake mani. On USDM models it's got a plate on top with four bolts holding it down, that's an access to the EGR's piping...

On ALL the USDM intakes the EGR enters the intake system via the "Y" pipe. The majority of vacuum lines source at the throttle body (off the top of my head I recall there being 4). You may be thinking of the ISC feed which comes from the throttle body, but that's the same on JDM N/As too...

IIRC - To remove that particular interior trim panel he'll need to start by removing the rear center panel and work his way forward.

Not on the N/A. At least not for all the years. They may have unified at some point, but there have been posts showing that the "Y" pipe doesn't have the EGR routing that the USDM "Y" pipe has. I'm not sure about the upper intake, but given that the USDM needs a specific port for the EGR passage...

I wouldn't be surprised if you managed to sell a few... but I don't think it'd be very many.

There is some gain to be had from replacing the stock muffler and resonator with something less restrictive. Upgrading to a larger pipe diameter helps reduce the restriction further. The stock system uses a baffled muffler and resonator and 2.25" crush bent pipe. Personally I wouldn't pickup...

Ah, go for it. I've always wanted to build a FG dash that's kinda between the two. Something that wraps aound the driver more, a tiny bit more curve and a couple more angles. But sticking with most of the same stock controls and guages. Oh, and it's Marlin Crawler who has the VSS adapter.

I've never been a Ford fan. As Cuel's avatar on SF states in regards to their logo: At least they circled the problem. lol, I love that. Anyway, the car's on it's way out. We've recently received two other vehicles, of which we'll be keeping one and selling the other along with the Mercury...

Thanks for the info guys. I didn't understand how just testing across the terminals could be accurate. I'm familiar with the need to ground "F" on most alternators to execute a "full fielding" test. The seperate sense line seems like a well thought out addition too. If you're in a situation...

Let's not forget the current aspect of the alternator's output. You can still see 14.5v across the rails with an alternator that is providing the proper voltage but not enough current when taxed. I really don't know how the regulators used in our car are designed, but when the power input drops...

If the previous owner didn't swap over the emissions controls (eg: EGR) a number of those won't be present.

Hopefully it won't come to that, but I'd keep a close eye on them. My wife has a Mystique (same car as I'm sure you know). The only thing people ask when they over heat is if the fans siezed (again) or if the switches failed (again). The fans in the Merc. have been replaced three times over a...

How much difference high performance plugs and wires will vary depending on the ones you're running now. If you're running cheapie or old wires and a strong advance it can make a huge difference when you get into the higher RPM range. A performance ignition can only perform to its potential if...

Check the wiring and voltage at +B and +B1 at the ECU, with the ignition turned to the on position. It could be a bad ignition switch, main relay (as the TSRM says) or wiring.

I mention the alternator, simply because I've done it... run with it unplugged I mean... lol. I freaked. :runaway: Then felt like an idiot. :squint: Anyway, my car acted alot like what neogen69 described. There are a number of possibilities, bad voltage regulator, alternator putting out...

Test the alternator, check all the fuses, check the wiring to the alternator and battery.

I found all but two at AutoZone. The store I went to had them in a ton of different sizes, they were all behind the counter. Annealing the old ones softens them up. It's not going to fix them if there's a gouge in them, but the surface is smooth it could work out alright. I'd rather use new...

The big problem with finding an aftermarket hose from a parts store's website is their wonderful descriptions. Yes, the hose you're looking for runs from the head to the heater control valve... is that it? No idea. I take it there not a NAPA nearby that you could go to with the stocker and just...