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If the TEWD is accurate that is a 12v constant. Like I said, test it first. If it's the line I'm thinking of it's a thick little beast that runs up to the ignition switch along side of the steering column.

I'll help you out. Send me a PM withsome details and your schedule.

We've been trying to explain the difference in routing between USDM and JDM... Route it how ever you like. Just make sure you get it right.

Lol, not to mention a real quick, early retirement plan for the lawyer.

Be very careful when removing the "Suspension Support" from the spring/shock assembly. The preload in the spring case really mess someone up if they don't take care. Use the proper tools and rent/buy/borrow a decent set of spring compressors before removing that center nut. I'm not trying to...

^^^That's how most of the parts stores around here have their hoses setup. And I agree, there are somethings where Champion/Jay Marks just flat out rock. Anyway, here are the parts numbers from AutoZone for GoodYear molded hoses specifically listed as "heater" hose and a couple "related"...

I'm sorry man, I really thought that was the hose I got aftermarket. I'd try NAPA if there's none to be had from Toyota locally. Good luck with it.

All of the auto stores around here are open on sundays. I'll run out to my car and see if my hose has the part number on it... if not it went with the sticker that I took off of it. EDIT: well shit... That hose I got from Toyota. It's the driver's side hose that's the Goodyear hose (no number...

If it's the wire type of fusible link it's bolted in from the bottom. The socketed type don't just drop in... but if that is the problem it wouldn't hurt to switch.

Ugh, it's IJ not 'one'J... Thanks for the feedback, I'm definitely going to have to pick one of those up. How are you going about making sure the paste doesn't get into the oil or water ports? How are you keeping it out of the cylinders?

You could achieve that look with either bulbs or LEDs, but the LEDs will have a much more vivid color (like that in the photo). I've seen both in the parts stores, if you're looking for vivid color go with a multiple LED unit.

There are a few options. If it need to be a high current line I believe the one you want it white with a red stripe. I don't have my pre89 TEWD (with my notes from my alarm install with me), so test it before cutting anything. EDIT...

Mine has the nipple in the same location as the stocker. Another member posted pics of his there as well. However, if you want, you can just replace the hose with a longer one. That or keep looking. If you look back through the pics you'll see most of the Civic intake users have the PS vac...

It's in the fuse box by the battery. Try searching "fusible link" if you need more info, it's been discussed at length here quite recently. There were two types used, one looks like a thick wire, the other looks like a huge fuse.

"entrapment" isn't nearly as broadly defined (legally) as some people would like to think.

I'm glad you got something together. FYI - the hose was a replacement part, same wrapped plastic cover (to prevent rubbing against the firewall) mine had and all. It's identical to the Toyota labeled one I pulled out in shape, but thicker walled.

Yeah, you should have more pressure. Some parts stores can test the cap to see what pressure it's holding to. It's not really accurate when the cap's cold, but if it's completely shot (tests to 13psi or less) it's fine. Test it or just replace it. What makes you think it's not a stock rad...

I replaced that hose with one from AutoZone (or was it Checker?), it was less than half the price and the wall is thicker. The hose is made by Goodyear and was a perfect fit (premolded). It's reinforced, of course.

Do you mean the heater hose that runs to the heater control valve on the right (Passenger) side? They're both here: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291420/catalog.aspx?Figure=8716&Page=1

Check the fusible link and fuses in the engine bay fuse box.