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Just take the cap to an automotive parts store. It shouldn't take more than a couple minutes to find the right one and they're only a few bucks. EDIT: Also, does the cap have the PSI rating on it?

^^^Let's not go too far... You've still got the bottom end to worry about. ;)

I didn't know that. Were there different designs? A few members are using them, I think Jeff is. Well, in that case I had one in my MR2 that was from a ford (I think), which opened upward and the door slid back out of the way. The only bummer was that the pocket was smaller than it could have...

Nah, let's roll with it... :naughty: This gets asked so often having a couple threads with pics and breakdown won't hurt.

Lol, I always loved these. I've never thought about doing one of my car though... might even make it look better. :naughty:

Gotcha, I'm saving that one... It'll probably come in handy again in the future.

Okay, that's where i was looking. If it works well for you I demand part numbers! :icon_bigg

^^^ Good find!!! I don't think I've ever seen that EPC diagram... that from the Cygnus EPC?

Here, I took a couple quick shots of mine: http://www.fadingworld.com/Supra/CoolantHoses/ It's not the easiest to make out, but the pics are huge and if you compare them to the EPC you'll see how it's "supposed" to go together. As for capping the line, personally, I'd run to the parts...

Someone's probably done some creative plumbing... I wouldn't be surprised if it's a JDM engine opr at least from a RHD MKIII. The Hose coming off the top of the head at the rear runs to the heater core control valve and from there to a fire wall inlet below it.

Sorry man... The long hose connects to the pipe opening on the opposite side of the cap that your illustration points to. From there it connects to the heatercore at the firewall. The part you're pointing to in the picture is supposed to be capped off.

I'd already mentioned that in another one of your threads. Rerout the coolant hoses to MATCH your old engine. On the USDM that side is capped and the long hose is connected on the other side. On RHD MKIIIs it's capped on the LH side, LHD it's capped on the RH side.

I haven't worked on the foward end of the MKIII's ebrake line. I recall thinking the back end wouldn't be hard to replace with a DIY cable... but yeah, a new assembly from NAPA shouldn't cost too much anyway and it'll drop straight in.

You mind sharing where you got the plate?

If the deck's already installed, you've probably got all the brackets you need. Kits usually come with brackets, wiring harness and the pocket or blockoff. Our decks are a standard size, they're double din. If you put in a single din headunit, you just need a single din blockoff or pocket to...

Well there are the two usual sources: new from Toyota, used from a parts car. I'm pretty sure there's nothing very special about out e-brake cables, just steel rope (aircraft cable) you could probably make one easily enough.

Not having an exhaust connected isn't going to keep the engine from firing... and don't get me started on the "backpressure" thing. TooGoode, have you verified the timing and distributor position? If it fired the first time something's probably changed... what was it? Have you checked the...

Shouldn't be too surprised... they're still human. I ordered two cam seals but got two oil pump drive seals... I gave them the right part number. They still sent me the wrong parts.

Most car audio and general electronics shops carry single din block off plates or better yet storage bins which fit in the remaining single din opening. Toyota has one which has a door on it, I don't know the part number off hand, but I've seen tons of them in junk yards and they're still...

What about it? Other than the fact that their data is all wrong. The 7M-GE is not a 1.6L 180HP engine.