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How accurate that display is depends on how it reads the A/F. From the sound of it, it uses one of the programmable outputs. As such it's not much more than a modified volt meter. It may use a serial interface, that would make it alot more reliable. If you want cheap you could always build a...

Do you know the impedance of all the speakers? Are the front speakers running parallel or serial? It does sound like it's drawing too much power and the head unit is going into a safe mode. EDIT: What size are the speakers? and what model is the deck?

Welcome to the forum. If you're looking for answers posting in the relevant section will drastically increase the number of responses. For now, I'd suggest looking at the ISC (Idle Speed Controller). The TSRM (your new best friend) details trouble shooting it...

Well, I'm not going to knock the color or I might never hear the end of it from another member. It sounds like you've already got some decent plans laid out. I look forward to seeing at cleaned up... wish I had the time do get the body work on mine taken care of, but some things must come...

Well, first of all, welcome. Second... are you capable of working on your own car? If not, plan on learning. Third, while looking for a MKIII, check for all the usual things. Smoke at startup, during acceleration and deceleration. Check the coolant for any signs of contamination (look in the...

The EPC will help fill in the gaps and give you a better overall view. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291410/catalog.aspx?Figure=1708&Page=2

They also may take out their frustrations on your car... smashing more windows, beating the hell out of the body, slashing the tires. So, if you're just looking to keep them from stealing your stereo, it might not be worth it... if you're worried about them stealing the car, it might be worth it.

Gotcha, I thought it might be something he was considering for use as an "armed" indicator. I've got two blue LEDs on a circuit that strobes for my indicator...you have to be very careful about the placement of those and the wiring or a lot of PDs can really nail you. I like the idea...

Wouldn't that result in something similar to mixing acids and alkalines, matter and antimatter, Republicans and unified health care, dinosaurs and meteors? :evil2:

Is the oil thicker than it should be? You could try mixing the drained oil well, fill a glass jar with some and let it sit for a couple days with a cap on it. If there's any water in the it should separate out... I've never tried it, but it would make it easier to see any fluids separating out...

The oil cooler most people work into the plumbing of an oil filter relocation kit. Don't forget to put a thermostat on the cooler. You can't use the return line of the relocation kit for the turbo's oil return either. It sees too muck pressure and the turbo's oil won't drain well. I believe...

I really don't know if it'll make any difference. I suppose that since those fans flatten out the faster they spin, without something to run them slower than the water pump, they'll be pulling less air through at a lower RPM than they would with the clutch. This is quite simply due to the blades...

What I don't get is what wire runs from the alternator to a fuse? Are you referring to the fuse box? Can you post a picture and tell us specifically which wire you're referring to?

Nope, it's not drilled and tapped. If you want to pull the motor apart so you can drill it, tap it and properly flush ALL of the shavings out that would work... I don't think it's ever been deemed a "better" way to do it, but I do believe the term "proper" has been used. ;) And if you're...

Flex-a-Lite makes anodized aluminum spacers. If you like it let us know, I've been thinking about trying one of those as well... it's just toward the bottom of my to-do list. The next question is what are you going to do to clean up the fan clutch? Polish it, paint it (probably a bad idea) or...

The most common placement for the oil return is at the top of the pan, just below the flange, toward the front or the pan. Make sure the return exits by a main cap and not a rod. This thread has some good info: http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=418689&highlight=front

I'm pretty sure it was the 1300 (blue) that I've seen on a 7M, just wish I could find the thread... it's been a while so it really could have been on any of the MKIII sites. If I track it down I'll post a link for you. I'd like to know how the airflow compares. What's the diameter of the stock...

It sounds like somewhere, downstream of the alternator, something's drawing too much current or the wire is hosed. I'd start with a multimeter and test the wiring from one end to the other for resistance. With the car off and the battery disconnected. EDIT: As for reading schematics, the TEWD...

How are you testing the voltage? Do you own a multimeter? (and understand how it works?)

Performance decals don't add horsepower... but I suspect that if your body and paint are in REAL bad shape they might help reduce drag. :icon_razz