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The check valve coming from the diaphragm which controls the HCV, I'm pretty sure that's backwards.... it only works when facing the right direction and the way that it's on there no vacuum would ever hit the diaphragm.... unless the check valve is shot. The little black and white thingy in the...

Is that check valve on backwards?

I can't remember if the connections were labeled on my alternator or not. If they are (and it may only be labeled on the regulator) the TEWD will show which wire goes where.... until you get a new plug for it. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=Main&Page=042

You might try digikey. www.digikey.com lookup "hook-up wire"

Yup, Tefzel. I've never used it in anything other than wire-wrap applications, but I like it... I don't think I've seen it on any wire larger than 28AWG. Handles heat like nothing else...

I could imagine it happening if someone decided to rewire the security system to use the regular horn so they could remove the dedicated horn.

yes

Have you checked the ISC? EDIT: The next thing I'd check after that would be the vacuum lines, then AFM. D'oh, and let's not forget the TPS.

I'd try contacting the shop where you bought them. If that doesn't work out you might try contacting a shop that deals with EL gauges alot such as procarparts.com and see if their gauges use the same try of connector.

I guess they're all in Colorado Springs... I've personally seen 10 in the Denver Metro area, not including those which I'm sure were previously in my count and of course not including mine. Any way about it I don't think there's much doubt that they're scarce in this state. It'd be sweet if...

Make your own ground cables. If you're going to spend money it, do it right.

Depends which part of the e-brake cable. The front half is easy, doing the rear on mine sucked big time. I don't know if there are any how-to's, the worst part is the cable sleeve's fitting which anchors into the knuckle. There's probably a tool that'd make it easier, but I don't have one. If...

Hopefully, it's nothing like my passenger side was... Someone had taken it completely apart and apparently decided they didn't know what they were doing just scooped all the loose parts into the drum. Needless to say that I've got an entirely new ebrake on that side now, I had to replace everything.

It's worth a try. If that doesn't help check the cable under the car next. If everything's intact and present, pull the rear rotors and see if the pads need replacing.

Woulda been nice of them to put that in the manual.... glad you got it.

So, for the benefit of the next person who has trouble trying to install these, what was the problem?

When you tried wiring these up using the cigarette lighter's wire specifically where did you connects each wire? Be detailed, for example: Black (ground) from the gauge to the driver's side kick panel ground bolt, White (white illum) from the gauge to the Blue with red stripe cigarette lighter's...

What's the make and model of the gauge?

Thanks for the info JetJock. If they're both reported to be equal they're probably close enough for my needs. One more question, is the any difference between the center area and the sides of the openings?

Is the fuse good? The line from the 20A Cig. fuse should come on at ACC. The Taillight line comes on with the parking lights and headlights.