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Yup, something's wrong... ;) It's indicative of a faulty IDL switch in the TPS, but without proper testing I'm not going to say that's it... It could be a problem with the harness connector, the harness, the ECU and so on.

Have you tested it? http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=FI&Page=101

Noise and misfires? A stabilizer usually won't do a thing for that. Have you checked you plug wires? You're not running solid core wires are you?

A pic would help. How many pins? It's not for the HAC is it?

Very odd, so you can't go past what, 65MPH? So I take it the engine revs past 3500RPM in every other gear? Do the RPMs keep climbing? Any aftermarket electronics installed that you know of?

Only three things to choose from that I can think of... flex in the rims, slack in the bearings or flex in the caliper and it's mount on the knuckle. Probably a combination of all three, and no 4mm is not alot it's very little.

IIRC, there are only two harness connections on the pre89's driver's seat. If the entire lower half doesn't have power check the harness connections. They're on the bottom in the back side of the seat. If only one of the motors is out, pull the seat and see if the motor will run off 12V. It...

In most cases they're nothing more than a box with a few capacitors and a couple LEDs. 99% of them are complete trash, with even less capacity for filling power losses than a high capacity car stereo cap. I've seen some that are a bit more involved but still nothing more than a multi-stage...

Looks way too short up top and the bottom end doesn't appear to extend far enough to make for anything other than missed shifts due to the shift linkage not moving far enough.

The radiator cap is an integral part of the cooling system that is all too often taken for granted. It's a pressure release, release too much pressure and the boiling point of the coolant lowers. However, I don't think it's the cause of your problem or you'd see fluctuations and loss of coolant...

You may need to replace the thermostat or the radiator car if your temps are fluctuating... it could be something worse but start with those two thing as they're the cheapest. Also make sure the harness connection to the temp sender is clean and secure, the increased vibration at higher speeds...

Great stuff. I really like the new oil cap!

Recirc. versus fresh air makes a difference with my car. My system hasn't been converted by the way.

If you figure out what's causing your power steering to have so much play let me know. Mine's so sensitive that if I cough while driving on the highway, bam, I've made a lane change.

Getting photos of engines both assembled and disassembled could be extremely helpful. You could put pointer to every "little doohickey" so the viewer could mouse over it and say "Oh sh!t, I just threw out my oil pressure sender!" OR "So that's what the big empty threaded hole is for!" OR "Oh, so...

Thanks for posting the clarification JetJock... I apparently wasn't thinking straight earlier.

Hey I just realized I made a mistake in my posts. E2 is a ground. You don't need to test it for 12v. Just test that run of wire the same as the VC wire.

It'd be nice if the owner of the online TSRM would let us cross link with his site... or let us use his site for source materials.

There are a couple reasons for this. If it does it on a full tank, the sender could be worn out and in serious need of a thorough cleaning. Also, the sensor which detects the fuel level uses a float mounted on an arm, when you floor it the gas in the tank moves back and up and the float drops a...

I do, but I won't have the time for it anytime soon. :icon_razz