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How about a couple image maps for the nooB's so they can visually home in on problems?

I was curious about that too... the plate question made me wonder but I forgot to ask after searching out the other thread.

I'd like one for my desk at work... make one hell of a paper weight! How's $5? Neat find.

Yup, it's the Steering Damper. P/N 45700-14010 MSRP $175.54 I'll look in my '88 TSRM and see if there's any testing info. EDIT: The only thing I can find is the torque spec. The two bolts for it are supposed to be torqued using 20ft lbs and you're supposed to use thread locker on it. If you...

It's not the worst job you'll have to do. Just relax and be patient. Cost is going to depend on what brand of parts you get and where you get them from. If you make your own ignition wires you can have an excellent set of wires for under $80, if you buy them locally they may be over $150, if...

You might try searching Koyo, CSF, PWR and Fluidyne.

Cap and rotor are cheap. You can check to see if the cap and rotor are clean and in spec though (I'm pretty sure the TSRM covers it). Some advice, if you don't cheap out on the plugs and wires they'll last you a long time. EDIT: If you haven't already, check the air filter and oil.

Yeah, yeah... so I type slow. :icon_razz

Hello NooB, Here's some reading material for you: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/TechTips/engine_error_codes.aspx http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/ http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/ So your temp gauge acts up when you're in 5th? Very odd. I'd start with checking for...

If you're a DIYer you could replace the resistors with pots and then just tweak until the failure module stops tripping. I haven't looked in one of these in quite a while so I can't be more specific right now.

Any chance of a set with a stock N/A compression? I'm assuming not.

Gotcha, they were probably dried up and had shrunken a bit. New gromets should take care of it.

MDCmotorsports carries what you're looking for: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24472&highlight=oil+lines+kit

90301-07001 - Upper 23291-41010 - Lower And what do you mean you've got a vacuum leak on the injectors? I've found it easiest to put the new o-rings on the injector, insert the tops into the fuel rail first (use a little spit to lube the o-ring so it'll go in without pinching), then work in...

I recall this having been talked about before on here. IIRC, someone got a new Aisin and it had a cast impeller too. I guess they're cheaper or easier to manufacture.

I wouldn't recommend it. The soft circuit on the back of the gauge can only handle so much current. It may work fine, it may work for a month, it may burn up right away. Without knowing how much current the gauge draws it's a guessing game.

Pray? You could check to make sure the hoses aren't swelling. Not terribly uncommon with older cars. The brake fluid could need changing though.

Hey Chris, sorry, I'm at work and don't have much time to help today. Here's a video tutorial for you. http://tangentsoft.net/elec/movies/tt06.html I can't tell if that DMM has a continuity function, check the manual. If not, you can test continuity with the 200Ω resistance function...

White's good, but I like the separation. I think when I finally get around to getting my body work done I think I'm going to go with a very light silver for the trim. Listen to Gilsdorf about the flex agents... especially on pre89 moldings, they've got a lot more rubber on the face. Matt...

Test the VC pin (pin 4, between the blank spot and the brass contact) on the connector for a short to ground. Then test the continuity of the line between that point and the VC pin on the ECU's harness (look at the pinout diagram in the MAFT Pro writeup for the location). If that's good test the...