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The clamp style with the latching push pin? I've seen them in specialty hardware stores (mom and pop owned Ace and TruValue). I don't think Home Depot or Lowes carry anything like the stock plastic clamps, but they do carry rubber coated meat straps with a bolt hole. You could use one of those...

The Taillamp failure light? If ALL of your rear lights are working (including the side markers) it could be either corrosion on the bulb sockets or a fault in the taillamp failure module. Double check all the lamps including side markers, turn signals, brake lights and parking lights. Then clean...

Yeah, I don't know the p/n off the top of my head, but it's a blue box labeled "Retractor Control".

Yeah, you either tap the pan OR the block. Personally, I'd rather do the block. I can't recall where the feed comes from at the moment. I think some people get a little creative with the knock sensors and rewire to get rid of one, but again, I'd rather do it right and use both. The GTE has two...

Ditto. It's astounding how much of a difference just the rewire can make. Twigger, there are two parts to lighting: emission and direction. Producing tons of light only helps if it's going where you need it and having the light go where you need it only helps if you're producing enough light...

GTE's knock sensors are: #1 between cyls 1 and 2, #2 between cyls 5 and 6. The GE's is in the center of the block. The GE block has spots where the GTE knock sensors would go but they are not drilled and tapped. The oil return for the turbo is not drilled and tapped either. These aren't huge...

There are alot of subtle differences between the GTE and the GE. 2 knock sensors in different locations than the GE's one, turbo oil return, oil squirters, thermostat neck, oil cooler return, cam shafts, oil pump, etc.

If you can wait and really take your time finding one that's in excellent condition, been thoroughly maintained and cared for by an owner who knows what the hell they were doing then yes, it may be a reliable car. If you're planning on buying one that's a "steal" and fixing it up yourself...

It's used with low impedance injectors. IIRC, 89+ have high impedance injectors.

The 12v illumination wire may need a ground instead of positive. It's supposed to dim the gauge lighting a bit, like the clock and CC do when you turn on the lights. The thought is that if it's dark out less light is needed to view the gauges and that it's better than leaving them at a...

Are you sure it's the strut mount? Anyway, the strut mount and the top of the strut are supposed to be D shaped to prevent the rod from spinning, sounds like the mount's been stripped. I don't know if you can tighten it with the rod in the car this way, but you need to get some vice grips on the...

Missed it. ;)

What is your oil pressure at?

Well, you can bypass the tail lamp failure module. See this thread for details: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=44803

That'd trigger the lamp failure module. Can you solder?

Speedo cable, the small clutch in the speedometer, or the gearing in the speedo/odo needs some fresh grease.

Bad switch contacts in either one will cause issues with both switches: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=Main&Page=094

Was the passenger window lock engaged? The only likely possibilities are a bad master switch, bad window lock switch, or the motor overheated. The motor shouldn't be overheating just from warm weather though... if it is it's probably on it's way out.

A fault due to heat is a possibility, but I think dirty switch contacts are more common.

Okay, I was wondering if they weren't all connected at some point... it just didn't look like it when I glanced at the TEWD.