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FYI - there are new wiring diagrams in the MAFT Pro N/A thread. Supporting documentation will come later.

Updates: Click on the desired diagram for a larger version. Please let me know of any bad, broken or crossed links. MAF Translation mode: MAF Translation mode with LC-1 wideband: Speed / Density mode with LC-1 wideband: Boost Control (requires Speed / Density mode):

You could solder in two pots and adjust them until it doesn't come on any more. Then if you want to put in a regular resistor just measure the value of the pot and find the closest E24 value. I don't think the system is sensitive enough demand a closer match than 5%. EDIT: EIA Standard resistor...

I'm pretty sure that's the one, it's supplied by pin #10 (taillight circuit).

The path with the jumper closest to the receptacle?

Does anyone have some of these that they can use to provide some known values?

Hey guys, I just recalled something important about the MAFT Pro. If you want to use the MAFT Pro's boost control feature you need to use a speed/density setup. The Boost control depends on pressure readings from the MAP sensor.

^^Yeah, you're making it out to be harder than it is. Regardless this is academic. IMO, there's more to be lost than the quicker spark plug replacement is worth.

It's designed the way it is for the ACIS system (on N/A's at any rate). Converting to something else is possible, but most setups will cost you power at one end or another of the power band. What so hard about changing our spark plugs?

Sl1deways and I are both considering drilling out the stock return location. I don't have all the info together yet though. If you put the return in the oil pan make sure it's as high up as possible, toward the front of the pan, and exits by a main cap.

Yeah, it is best to run them along their own wire all the way to the same ground point. Has anyone had an issue with running them to the ECU's harness ground though and not the block?

Unless you dropped in a long block and bypassed the resistor pack and forgot. At any rate I've already mentioned how to verify which injectors are in the car.

That's fine, I just wanted to clarify. That statement was rather final and as such inaccurate.

That's accurate in this application.

Well, now that's a bit different than: Testing them is cake, pull one of the injector clips and test the resistance. It should be between 2.5 and 3 Ohms for low impedance injectors (it can be a bit higher or lower due to age).

Actually his N/A should be low impedance and all 7M-GTE's are low impedance... should be just fine. IIRC, 89+ N/A's used high impedance injectors, but that's a moot point.

Okay, I gotcha. At any rate I suspect some people will need the more detailed explanation, so it's no biggie. Lol, you didn't have to quote the whole thing.

I'm planning on one for timing control, another for boost control, one for translator mode, versions with and without the LC-1, etc. for both GTE's and GE's pre89 and 89+... no ETA though. I've got something else I want to talk to you about Bob, so don't go anywhere. ;)

I'm still having nightmares.:3d_frown:

Yup, it's got an Aux mode. ;) BTW, don't take my word for gospel. There's plenty that I don't know and I've been wrong before..... once. :evil2: If you want a preview of what you're getting into you can look here: http://www.fadingworld.com/Supra/MAFT/Manual%204.80.php It's a...