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I don't think 18" will fit unless it's got a real thin body. I was told by the owner of the shop that did mine to look for something around 14".

Avoid IDCs (Insulation Displacement Connectors) like the plague. These include T taps and scotch locks. If the wire sees any vibration they tend to chew through it over time. There are only two real reliable methods: 1) Strip a bit of insulation, solder and heat shrink (If you're good you can...

Lol, now why would I think that? Using ratchet extensions works well too in a pinch. ;)

I've got my eye on an Aero Exhaust resonator. Free flowing, well designed and probably quieter than a glasspack would be.

Unfortunately, a hair dryer doesn't produce enough heat and doesn't heat the piece evenly enough. Most plastics have a memory, you need to thoroughly soften the material all the way through to over come that. You bring up an interesting point though and I'm curious how well this will hold up.

I was actually wondering why it had gotten so much better... first time I managed with just one read. j/k Nash.. ;) Now, how about those pics?

The noise going away when a given injector is disconnected could signify either. If the noise goes away with the injector disconnected and then with the injector reconnected and the spark plug wire disconnected you've got the cylinder and it's not an injector or shim issue. Just pickup an...

pics?

:ttiwwp: Excellent tip!

Sorry, I can't recall it the R7 resistor that has to be removed for timing monitoring has to be in place or removed for timing control. I was hoping Dr.Jonez would step up with the answer.

I think the main thing is whether or not you removed the resistor R7 from the MAFT Pro.

From what limited understanding I have of the Timing Control feature I've come to the understanding that when the manifold pressure is below a certain psi level it's supposed to just pass the IGt signal straight through to the ignitor. I may be wrong. Have you got everything installed and are...

So you're pulling 26% from the mainscale AND from the UT? (Sorry if it's a dumb question I don't know the Gen II at all) What size injectors are you using?

One side bolts to the rack, the other to the subframe (IIRC). What did the damper run you anyway?

Yeah, I missed that. I hadn't assumed they operated similarly. I was just expressing the interest in modifying the two.

Yes, the dotted lines indicate original wire routing that's been removed. I'm sorry, but I don't know precisely what the issue is. Have you verified that all the connections are solid and that the ignitor is receiving a signal on the IGt line? On a side note, have you been running 4.8 or 4.6...

I meant lock picks... ;) I don't think there's another way to remove the cylinder... but I've never had to. Are you trying to remove the internal barrel or the whole lock? Which lock is this anyway, the ignition? EDIT: If you're trying to remove the barrel it doesn't look like there are any...

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291210/catalog.aspx?Figure=4505&Page=3

I have been wondering if it wouldn't be possible to do this with both temp and oil pressure gauges.

Bah, I don't care about the bump. Enough people have been asking about this lately. BTW, if you want to find pin compatible 7 segment displays Kingbright carries them. I don't think the part number for all colors are listed, but there are a couple in this thread...