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What type of tubing did you use? if you used silicone you should consider putting zip ties at all the unions (like little hose clamps). Due to silicone's non porous and somewhat slick nature it doesn't always seal well, especially when connected to an older vacuum nipple.

Some GM alternators fit just as well, are smaller and still come in hifher output models... same amount of rewiring required, but they're usually alot cheaper when compared amp for amp. That's why I mention it, they're extremely popular with the Toyota truck crowd and pnp wire adapters are...

A capacitor or a "voltage stabilizer" (cough small array of capacitors) isn't going to prevent your voltage from dropping due to a constant load. If it's due to whatever extra electronics as you've got in there you should do the math and see what size GM alternator you're going to have to make...

\ It's not just a matter of hassle. If the internals are different enough you could damage the meter or worse your ECU. Just throwing a part on a car because it "looks like it'll fit" is downright foolish. This is more a matter of possible damage to the electronics than the ECU. Whether the...

I would dump the porous filter media in favor of multiple corrugated metal baffles. Greater area for the oil's inertia to carry it out of the airflow and doesn't need to be cleaned or replaced frequently, just drain the tank. That or a light liquid filter media and a submerged PCV inlet.

440's should be sufficient, but if you're thinking of using injectors that are almost 20 years and expecting them to still flow near their original rated peak you better get them tested. I'd probably go with the 550's just so I had more headroom for later.

You'll need to weld a nipple to the pipe some ways back, the longer the inlet nipple the better as heat will be more likely to dissipate before it reaches the hose. You need to weld the pipe in so it's either perpendicular or at an accute angle to the inlet side of the exhaust. Exhaust pipe...

:3d_frown: Hey, if you want to drop in a AFM on top of the MAFT Pro, by all means... You can actually use the MAFT Pro to just tune the AFM and keep the SD setup running to compare the airflow calculations and see how changing intake design with the AFM changes manifold pressure at different...

Absolutely! Had you done more reading you wouldn't be finding yourself doing a bunch of research in a few days on how to restore the ACIS system which it sounds like you've already half gutted. If you want simple go Chevy small block and forget about EFI while you're at it.

Yes, the individually sold ones are OEM replacements. The stock headbolts are beefy enough to take more than any N/A's going to throw at them. If you want to feel a little more secure the ARPs are excellent hardware, but unessential unless you're planning on throwing a lot of nitrous at the...

Personally, I'd keep the PCV intact... If nothing else it helps reduce pressure on seals and helps the rings seal better (or was it that it just kept oil from creeping past...). If you have no emissions or cat you could get vacuum by running this to the exhaust instead of the intake. People...

Hahaha, you said Bork'd... that rhymes with "PORKED"!!!! :poon::yelrotflm There's a thermistor between the two it's used to determine air temp. They can shift over time causing your mixture to change while the ECU's operating in "open loop". Lets just say that when you start causing a big...

Well, if they come on when you release the e-brake... Personally, I'd pull off the e-brake boot and see. Then, if there's only one switch I'd look for a wiring diagram. If there's only one disconnecting it is probably going to leave your brake indicator on the dash on full time.

The two things to consider if the electronics are compatible but it's of a different size are: Erratic tip-in and choking at higher RPM. The VAF can go out fairly easily, it's an entirely mechanical contraption. It's not built much different than a TPS which most acknowledge to be a wear...

Possibly something in the Canadian spec DRL circuit? I think Jeff Lange posted the wiring diagram for them before. If it's not Daytime Running Lamps it's an interesting mod.

They do not all use the same scale for the signal, nor are they all the same size. If the signal scaling matches (ie: 2.50v for a 50% open vane) but the opening and bypass are smaller the ECU will add too much fuel as the pvane moves and won't correct until it sees the mix is WAY off. So, yes...

Don't get me started on this again... :3d_frown: I still want to know who you talked to.

There's a switch in the AFM which will cut the power to the fuel pump if the vane is fully at rest (ie: there's no air entering the intake or the AFM (and as a result the switch) is disconnected). http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=FI&P=94 From my dealing with...

If it's not a loss of pressure test FC on the AFM while the AFM is hot. If there's a fracture in the traces or if the reeds are dirty or not make good contact that'll cut power to the fuel pump.

No worries here Dugums, I'm not really looking to get much if anything out of this project. Just trying to give back a little (more) before I say my farewells to the MKIII club.