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Don't even think about it. The Targa equipped models have a lot more bracing to make up for the lost rigidity.... and they still handle like wet noodles.

One of these days I'm just going to get in my car and drive the 1,400+ miles to attend a meet.... ... of course, I might have to arrange to make pit stops at the homes of other members to fix everything that breaks along the way.

^^^Uh... that's helpful. Maybe I'll invest in one of those neato car radio's with a dyno built in! (yeah, I'm gonna cheap out now... Bwahahahaha<cough>hahahaha<cough hack>hahahahehehehehehe) No. No doubt. ;)

Aside from the TPS, how's the Walbro wired up? Do you have any error codes? It's been a while since I've had to know, so I looked up the resistance values for copper wire... 18AWG should have a resistance of approx. 6.385&#937; per 1000' (that's about .0064 per foot). Of course keep in mind...

The stock VAF simply won't do for this project. The vane can only move so far before it's providing the ECU a static signal which may not provide nearly enough fuel for what's getting shoved into that 22.75cu in (yes, pre89 foglight openings are huge!) opening at 50MPH and above. The foglight...

It'll be a little while... I've got so much going on and I'm probably going to have to pull the bumper to finish measuring everything up. I've got some of the FG done the rest of it will take a little while... then I've got to build a vacuum triggered bypass valve (think deep puddles).

For copper wire those resistances sound fairly high.. I'm not sure where they should be though. The TPS typically supplies ~.5v to the ECU when closed and ~3.5v fully open. The TPS isn't going to cause you to run lean the whole time either.

That's what I'm putting my money on. ;)

Now that I have a means of measuring the differences I've begun prototyping a couple different styles of air scoops... aggressive air scoops. BTW, the stock air box is your best friend in this case. ;) Not that I'd recommend trying this if you're running the stock VAF.

Either that's grey or every car in CO that didn't come with blue or maroon came with the bronze. I've probably got 2 1/2 sets, all that color and from about a dozen different cars.

He was referring to Defiant7M's N/A build.

Armorall? Gloss black spray paint? Vasoline? lol

IIRC that number was estimated.... I think you're right too, I don't think it's even running yet.

The dimmer has a rheostat and a switch. If the rheo is the only part that's shot the full on setting will still work and visa versa. If part of the dimmer's circuitry is shot (typically a certain resistor) the the dash lights won't work in any position.

Yeah.... any time. You've just gotta go in on half the gas bill for the trip and I'll leave tonight. I'm running 235's all the way around. They're on 17's but still grab well enough. I can't really launch too hard, my clutch has been going since well before the MAFT Pro... really need to...

Test the dimmer. ;)

The N/A has more issues with accepting piggy backs than the GTE. I'm working on a small add-on for AJ and my MAFT Pro setups to pre-power the MAFT Pro and LC-1 in order to, hopefully, finally eliminate these peculiarities. The N/A is a poor platform for an off the line car IMHO. But with a MAF...

The only thing I can say is that I'm beating cars I shouldn't be able to or at least keeping up with them with no problems at all... of course under 60MPH they all would probably kick my rear.

Some newish pics of mine are here: http://www.fadingworld.com/Supra/Engine/20080426%20-%20Engine/

I needed to pry with a big screw driver but it didn't take much. I pried up front on the driver's side where the lower rear timing belt plate sticks out from under the head... just below where the alternator mounts.