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I missed the part about using them to pull the car into the garage... I think they'd be quite useful for securing the vehicle while working on it, but i agree there are probably earier ways to get it in the garage (like mounting a winch to the floor!).

WIRE NUTS!!!! Wooooo! Wire nuts FTW! Uh, yeah.... I just know I'm about yto have a lot of fun when I start finding those in the car.

I think I might have to go with AJ on the whole "fix it" thing... doesn't sound like a bad idea. :icon_razz

From what I recall the N/A's fuel pump doesn't prime. It's switched on when the measurement plate in the VAF is partially open (indicating that air is entering the engine and thus it is running... yes, it's rather crude) AND the main EFI relay and circuit opening relay are closed. The FC switch...

You might give some consideration to setting them so they're recessed, but yeah, shouldn't be too hard.

I'm not going to get into the whole octane thing right now. There are a couple threads which cover it quite thoroughly already on here, I'd suggest searching for them and reading them throroughly. Be forewarned, there is always inaccurate info mixed in with the good. To put it simply, the...

I've added aluminum braces to my stock undercover. Personally, looking at all the minor scuffs and scratches I don't think I'd like an aluminum undercover.

You'd be amazed (and possibly amused) at how many people have no clue. I mentioned something about getting a TSRM for my father's LandCruiser and within an hour the thread was full of "What the hell good is a Supra manual going to be with a truck?" type posts... Anyway, let's just let this...

Have you tested the rad cap?

It is "Toyota Service and Repair Manual". If you're fuel pump is on with the ignition without the car running you may just be hearing the fuel that's being routed back to the tank.

Definitely, wouldn't want my company logo on your car... lol. Just posting a want ad isn't going to get anyone to take you seriously. You need to do some research, contact companies who do sponsor cars and provide them with details, photos, proposal and anything else they require. Good luck.

I've heard using old head bolts and some chain works well.... just be careful I guess.

Are you hearing the starter spinning freely and the engine isn't cranking over at all?

The MAFT Pro's display and keypad are not in a seperate unit. You could possibly fit the whole thing in there... not sure if a single din storage bay would have the room. I'm working on something a bit different with my MAFT Pro.... I'll post details when I get closer to completing the work on it.

If you're saying that absolutely any change to the stock system will result in gains in powe and mileage, then, no... not true. There's plenty you could do to make things worse.

Why not contact one of the test centers to find out? They'd hopefully be able to give you a better idea.

Heh, I ran open headers for about an hour.... ugh. What a hell. Definitely not something I'd do on anything but a track car. Anyway there is a HUGE difference to open headers and running ANY kind of exhaust setup. People think that if open headers are good then 4" pipe will be better, but that's...

The Cold Start Injector is ONLY powered when the key is at ST1 (while you're actively cranking the engine). After that, if it's adding fuel, it's outright leaking. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=038 What you're describing sounds like what my AFM was doing...

Laser printer label and scotch tape for longevity. ;) Don't feel bad on the MAF-T thing... plenty of us would have been a bit lost.