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I suppose now would be a good time to clog my thread with something else that's only remotely related. Here's a teaser of a mod I'm working on (and no, it doesn't stop at the color change): It's not dim, the blue backlight is actually too bright... so I will be adding a dimmer to it.

Fusible links are available as insulated wire or in sealed units (such as the two right below it). AFAIK, older MKIII's came with the wire version and newer MKIII's got the sealed version. They're cross compatible though, so if yer look'n fur purdy...

It's been covered before... by someone. ;) Anyway, the ACIS system is controlled by the ECU. Barring hacking the ECU's ROM, installing a daughter board with an EEPROM and a new program the most you're going to be able to do would be to build a piggyback to delay the VSV coil from...

Cuel is right. I don't think I could see it with the intake in with out an array of mirrors and a flashlight. If you think you've got a problem with your ACIS system pull the upper half of the intake manifold and replace the vacuum lines. The vacuum lines are the most common cause for failure...

An EXCELLENT point. Rerouted vacuum lines are too common of a source of major grief... need to make sure VSV's are plumbed properly as well.

Cleaning may make it more effective, but generally, if the butterfly valve isn't moving the car saw 200,000+ miles, all driven by a granny, all in 3rd gear, while cruising at less than 30MPH (Yes, Sparky, we're referring to your car here :icon_razz ) or something else broke first. Moving parts...

All you gotta do is stop holding back.... c'mon, my clutch is even slipping (granted it's not full time... yet... but still).

Start by manually moving the linkage below the CSI. Then if that's good run a hose from a vacuum pump to the diaphragm (which moves the linkage) and check that it's responsive when vacuum is applied. Next test the VSV, this is covered in the TSRM. Those and vacuum leaks are the most common...

You've driven my car with a 2.5" catback with straight through muffler and no resonator.... how much difference do you think it made? :naughty: Seriously, I didn't notice too big of a difference going from the stock cat back to my current setup... Helps when...

Hey Cuel... yeah, I'm still "around", just less active online. The stock air system IS a CAI and it's far better thought out than most of those put together by most MKIII owners. The ONLY thing needed to optimize the stock system is to remove the accordion tubes (along with the whole VAF if...

I can't believe how much this topic gets beat to death... At best, this mod is bling only. At worst, this mod raises intake air temps and may contribute too a rich "tip-in" condition. I've found that at idle my intake temps generally rise by a minimum of 15° with the resonator...

Consider yourself corrected. ;) Yes, 440cc's refers to the flow at a duty cycle of 100%. However, to get there the entire scale of the injector is raised. 440cc injectors typically flow 25% more than 330cc injectors at any given duty cycle.

The dimmer is a VERY common failure point.

From my own experience I've found my car starts rougher, doesn't seem to rev as freely and makes the one oil leak I have at the moment MUCH worse until I'm down to about 1/2 quart over full.... so, I'd speculate that much more than a half over (which is what I run now) is liable to put too much...

On the GTE an extra quart doesn't hurt, on a N/A it does cause a noticable difference when starting up... I don't think I'd recommend more than a 1/2 quart over on an N/A. ;) Also, a good galley gasket (valve cover #3, IIRC) will help prevent oil leaking past the other gasketas from getting...

They're compatible as far as the wiring goes... I think they may use different bezels and there was a thread on here or SF about the 89+ being far more prone to breakage than the pre89 at the plastic rocker's pivot.

The gas smell isn't the problem.... it's the thinner gasses which you don't smell that you have to worry about and they DO get in your car VERY easily. I tore my muffler off last winter, kept getting headaches and dizzy spells and some issues with fatigue.... I figured it was the noise. I didn't...

Keep in mind that IJ's not running a N/A.... a weak GE will have to work a bit harder to push the rapidly cooling/thickening exhaust out of the piping. The only reason why I imagine that a setup like this wouldn't cause a definite power loss is that right after you slow your exhaust gasses to...

3.93 and 3.71 for the 7M-GTE (depends on year), 4.30 for the 7M-GE. I wouldn't recommend anything taller than the 3.93 in a N/A... but you know what you're looking for. I've got a 3.93, but I'm swapping in a 4.30 LSD soon... for fun more than anything.

AJ's computer knowledge is *very* limited... I agree with the issue probably being the COM port #. I suspect the adapter's set for a COM port out of Tuner Pro's range. (Can't change the COM port in my copy of TunerPro.) If this is what's going on you'll probably have to go into the Device...