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how about posting some pics and letting us know what you think is missing? It doesn't sound too hard to figure out if something's missing.

I can only help by offering that the W58's speedo drive gear is larger in diameter than the R154's.

Coils... not without a LOT of work and some custom electronics... or an adapter points converter. Injectors... not without a fuel controller.

Not the CSI unless the injector is leaking. The ISC could need a thorough cleaning. Another possibility could the a break in the AFM. I don't understand your response about the error codes? Are you familiar with how to check them?

The poor performance of E-Bay housings is well documented. They are definitely not the way to go. I might add though that from what I can tell of the color and intensity of the sealed beam that your stock wiring appears to be in very poor condition and does not represent a genuine comparison...

Ok, I suppose that might be similar enough of a feeling to confuse the two, but if the car continues to run regularly below 2K... it's usually not "being out of gas". But, since you mention the light is on.... why not add a gallon or two and see if it runs fine then???

I would be amazed if the FPR VSV were the issue. Have you checked for error codes?

No.

Other common places for ground issues are inside the sockets themselves and the chasis ground points. Some people have found that simply cleaning the ground points worked, I remember one person had to run a new ground line from the front of the car to the rear. If it's a voltage drop issue but...

If the signal's intermittent then either the wiring has a break, the harness pin has spread and the connection at the MAFT Pro is sporadic (this happened to me with a couple pins, by the way, the fix is easy), or you have it monitoring the wrong line.

Those are to satisfy the ECU by providing it with signal where there would otherwise no longer be one. I had to do pretty much the same thing with my MAFT Pro setup. Without it you'll get codes for HAC and THA.

Yup, loose alignment hardware can do it as well. Well, that unit looks VERY easy to swap in.... <----- the instant "easy" appears in anything involving a MKIII you know the picture is different from the actual product. Yes, the bearings are a press in affair. Depending on where you go, you...

I posted some detailed info about this little bastard on here a while ago. As long as all the light work you may be able to simply recalibrate it... or it may need a certain jumper replace in the circuit. The LFM is clipped on beneath the left tail lamp housing. Oh, and comparing part numbers...

Could be corrosion on the ground. The ground is bolted to the chassis between the tail lights behind the center trim panel in the trunk. Other common reasons for that damned light always staying on are: faulty lamp failure module, corrosion in the bulb sockets or on the bulb bases... it...

It is in Tuner Pro as well, just can't remember what it's named in the graphs.

I hope you're using something more reliable than the stock tach to monitor your RPM... they're not precise at all. AJ, the timing monitoring and timing control are two different parts of the MAFT Pro you can run timing monitoring without running timing control... but you need to run timing...

Vasoline, Crisco in a pinch.

Removing the battery once in a while won't cause a constant issue with the idle at startup. If it's only at startup the fuel pressure and CSI are the preliminary suspects.

I don't know if JJ has any sort of published timing map from Toyota as to the specs of the 7M. Due to the nature of the timing mechanism I myself would rather rely on actual measurements... Which, by the way, you have the tools to measure and log (especially if you wired up your MAFT Pro per my...

Absolutely nothing wrong with silicone, it's what I'm using. Just make sure it's sealed at the nipples well.