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It could be a BHG.

Never had a lip for mine. I keep thinking that as ghetto as my car is already I'll just add a vinyl cove base lip. How on Earth would a lip reduce dirt in the engine bay?

The cylinders with 150 could have more carbon build up than the others too. When you did the HG did you clean your pistons? Did you test the compression with oil added to the cylinders and did you pull the EFI fuse when testing? The stock radiator is fine as long as it's not cracked or kinked...

^^^ Erm... that IS a joke... right?

The spark is still controlled via the ECU. The means of delivery is the difference. The ECU reads the cam position (and several other things) decides what advance should be run and then signals the igniter sooner.

^^ ROFL, well, that sure took a while. Nice to know I'm just under-noticed and not just flat out ignored these days. ;)

Josh is referring to the ISC or ISCV (Idle Speed Control Valve): http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=FI&P=106 Testing instructions for the TPS are here: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=101 Most inportantly of all though... do...

Sorry, spent the weekend under my car. yes.

Cig, Dome and Tail are the three fuses the clock sees power from. If Cig or Dome are out the clock's out. Tail only controls the dimming function.

Oh, sorry... I was talking about that um... other guy. ;) Well, that's good. With such a short list it shouldn't take long to track down the mouthy bastard responsible. :icon_razz J/K, JJ. And I stand by most knowledgeable. At least with regard to the stock system, but typically still...

This would probably do better in General or GTE Tech. The GTE guys generally have more gauges than the N/A guys. The only ones I could think to add to a N/A would be A/F and Oil Temp.

EDIT: D'oh! Missed the discovery that you are running a GTE.... Well, I'll leave this info for future reference. EDIT2: Supraman508 read this, it does pertain to you. Your cap isn't the problem. Fix the cause of the code first, then worry about the little stuff. JJ may be a grump but he got...

Measure with one of these:

Just swap over your current electronics and throttle cable assembly if you've already got a GTE. Same for some of the plumbing, IIRC... it's obvious when you compare the two what you need to swap. Personally, if you swap a JDM engine straight in without replacing it's HG and thoroughly...

Thanks JJ. He's got a 5 speed so check the A/C's wiring and the IDL switch in the TPS: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=101 Anything else missing?

First thing is to find out if you're off by a constant amount... ie always reading -10MPH than actual or if you're low by a percentage. If you're low by a set amount just pull and remount the needle in the right orientation. If you're low by a percentage, you adjust it using the armature on the...

It's much more likely that the ECU isn't getting a signal when the A/C is on... and as such isn't idling up. Check the wiring that runs to the compressor. Then look at the third to the last tech tip here: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=58 for info on how...

Don't even think about trying to bore the fuel rail to take those injectors yourself either.

You wouldn't... you wouldn't dare. I would so hunt you down and take away your keys.

Bottom feed = catfish.... that's top feed, the other option is side feed. A little less expensive than RC: http://www.cruzinperformance.com/fuelinj.html No experience with this company myself. Someone on here recommended them some time ago.