Search results

Hello I recently swapped a 1jz-gte from a jza70 into my 89 turbo. I have two or three remaining issues. First is that my fpr is leaking where it bolt into the steel block (with the fuel feed hose). I tried changing the crush-washers but it still leaked a bit. How can I fix it permanently...

if it's a constant but very very very small bounce, like a vibration in the needle let's say. that would be the cable and overtime would it become worse?

I believe the 9V is only at idle

there should be a part in the motor mount section where it warns you that you'll have to beat the firewall a bit, otherwise the rear turbo hit the firewall and you can't even get close to dropping the mount in the subframe. Just so it doesn't get worrying when it doesn't trop right in at least...

if you ever make a LHD convertion kit or plug and play digi dash, I'll be trowing money at you. that is one of my dream (digi dash)

would changing the thrust washer be as good as new or will it crankwalk within a few hundred miles?

vacuum leak can be a bad runner-to-intake-manifold gasket. But I doubt it. The hose running to the valve cover is for the pcv and shouldnt affect the vacuum, except for the one to the pcv valve. but your idle problem is probably something else

I would think blocking it would cause the car to die? (no more air). but the throttle plate stop screw might keep it slightly open. what's your vacuum reading?

WIP

the pressure drop shouldn't be a problem since it is on the return side (barely any pressure to begin with). I doubt it would cause a restriction in the system

definitly not normal, my old blown ct-26 could make 10psi by 2.5k rpm and my fresh 57-ct26 would make 14psi @ 2.7k and 18@3.2 ish

yup, and cheap too :biglaugh:

it's not that bad really if the engine is in the car. first gear, handbrake, a big breaker bar and you can loose the crank pulley bolt, then use a puller to remove it. Unbolt both timing belt cover, remove the belt tensionner and you're ready to remove the pump. I did it while the engine was...

you can,t use the 2j pulley as it is similar to the 7m one (4 studs holding the fanclutch/pulley instead of a splined shaft and a bolt). I think your best bet is to change the waterpump assembly alltogether with a 2jz unit

I have terrible wheelhop and I think I'll need full bushing for the subframe and suspension at the back

I'm currently doing a 1jz swap and what is said above is true. Double everything paid 1k$ for my 1jzgte (it is in MINT condition and compression is perfect) without ecu/igniter/map sensor/trans now I'm up to 3.3k$ but I have all the parts (and there was some freebies and a few steal-deal). The...

is there any gain in porting the stock manifolds (1jz) or it is almost worthless

clutch or something? if with the front end is in the end and the knock disapeird, might be the disc sliding on the input shaft in direction of the rear... I don't know?!

5 I believe is a adaptor for the oil pressure gauge?!! 3 is the map sensor for the ecu

have you tried putting it in TTC (I believe they are seq like mkIV?!)