Search results

Here is what my timing map is currently set at: Idle 1000 1500 2000 2500 3000 3500 4000 4500 5000 5500 6000 6500 7000 +17 +22 +27 +29 +29 +30 +30 +30 +31 +32 +32 +32 +30 +30 Maximum torque is around 4500, soft rev cut at 6500 & hard at 7000. Auto 7mgte, CT26 57 trim...

What do most people consider to be the safe maximum psi for a CT26 57 trim?

ValgeKotkas, put in some higher lift cams, like the BC264's, headers & you will pick up at least 30rwhp.

Does it have standard cams?

I finished porting my manifold the other day & compared to doing the 7M cylinder head its MUCH easier.:icon_razz There are five bumps which need to be reduced a bit, two a lot more than the rest (especially #2 & #6 cylinder) plus minor gasket matching & reshaping/cleaning of ports. Dont know...

My auto is playing up. In D it only operates in overdrive gear, ie limp mode. Manually selecting 1st & 2nd is fine as is reverse. It does not throw any codes at all. About two days before the problem I noticed my tacho was playing up, ie bouncing all over the place & generally showing more...

Does anyone have an idea of how much a stock 7mgte exhaust manifold is capable of flowing? If ported properly what increase in airflow is possible?:naughty:

Changing the shape of the exhaust port on the head is fine as long as its a bit smaller than the manifold port to allow for reversion.:icon_bigg Looking at that picture a bit closer they would have to have a custom gasket made up as the original would not be suitable, not to mention reshaping...

I would have the head perfectly level. Came across this picture of a ported 7M exhaust port & wondered if anyone has thaught of using this shape. Trying to copy the 2J design I suppose.

I mean the weird shape of the exducer holding nut with the two large cuts.

Removed my dump pipe to fix a leak & found this. Reasons why someone would modify it like that?

I have a similar problem with a spare head I am doing up. One of the studs is broken inside the head. Tried drilling it but thats useless as its hardened too much. Went through three good quality bits & just scratched the surface. Using a stud remover is also hopeless as you cannot get it to...

Excellent & important point there Jdub. Checked the total bolt length of the ones I removed last time & they varied from 94.70 to 95.39mm, & no two were the same :aigo: So much for them not supposing to stretch over time.

Well the two I have done so far were pretty clean & I only needed to suck out a little bit of oil & deposits. Once I cleaned & measured the hole depth of the first one used the figure to ensure they were all pretty much the same as I went along. If they were a bit more full of deposits it...

I presumed people would have enough common sense to thoroughly clean out most of the oil from the hole before installing the stud. They are only ment to be finger tight into the block, so not even close to bottoming out, which still leaves a bit of room for expansion for the tiny amount of oil...

Just get the ARP studs, not bolts. With the engine dead cold remove & replace the original bolts ONE at a time, working in backward sequence as per TSRM tightening order. Make sure you install the washer first, facing the right way up.

Have a 7MGTE in a auto Cressida. Occasionally the engine refuses to kick over. Alternater is charging good & the starter motor is fine. The only way to start it is to manually move the fan belt a few inches. Is it the CPS & what is causing it?

So is that one of the reasons my '89 Soarer 7M, supposedly standard, pulls to 8,000 rpm quite happily?

Time for an update. Degreed the cams & yes they were both out a bit. According to the cam card info, ie @ 0.050" lift I opens at 0 (TDC) & E at 48 BBDC, my ideal setting should be I +4 1/2 & E + 3 1/2. Well at those settings it wont idle cleanly as the vaccum is crap & stalls pretty easy...

How is your engine oil level? Is the knock sensor connection on tightly?