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If anyone is having trouble tuning these cams I have found with my setup that I +2 & E -2 & 15 degrees timing gives me the best power. The cams come advanced by 4 degrees at the standard setting of 0 & 0. N/A auto Cressida with 7MGE.

I think you have gone way too far with I-2 & E-6. In order to get more torque down low you have to advance the cams, especially the intake. Try it at I 0 & E -2 with 13 degrees timing. If you need more top end retard the cams by 1 or 2 more degrees. The standard Toyota cams are pretty well...

If you advance the intake you will get more power down low but it will run out of breath pretty quick at higher revs, & retarding the exhaust will increase your top end. Try advancing the intake by 1 cam degree & retard the exhaust by one thereby giving you an increase in overlap by 2 cam...

Clearly mark the level of the coolant in the overflow bottle, when cold, & check to see if it is gradually decreasing. If you do not have any leaks through the hoses but are loosing coolant then its a BHG.

Interesting stuff regarding resonators etc. http://www.planetsoarer.com/resonator/resonator.html http://www.planetsoarer.com/indexfull.html

I am tinkering with a 7M Cressida AFM at the moment. It could stick if it has a large buildup of crap around the surfaces of the flapper or if its way out of alignment.

Good to hear that the car is going fine & you are happy with all the hard work. If you have advanced both cams 3 degrees than you have a bit more torque up to around 4000 but the power will start to drop sharply after 5000, probably loosing around 10hp at the top end. Just retard the cams a...

Any updates, the suspense is driving me nuts?

How accurate would it be to degree camshafts, to find 0.05" cam lift, by measuring piston movement starting from 0 at #1 TDC & knowing the stroke is 3.58" & maximum cam lift is 0.336"?

Yes I agree with Steve that those oil plugs will NOT leak oil easily. I put sealant on my plug threads & tightened them pretty tight & they have never leaked. After all they are not immersed in oil all the time but just cop a lot of splashing. I would still throw away that cover as the leads...

Excellent work. Just a few things to do or think about: 1) If it was me I would remove that metal gasket in the spark plug valley. Really serves no usefull purpose & makes it very hard to clean up any oil that may seep there in the future. 2) You have the same adjustable cam gears that I...

Have you checked the fuel filter, cleaned out the pcv pipe (including the throttle body vent) & ISCV?

Excellent work & even better pictures. Dont forget to check that you have enough clearance for the two dowel pins. Would file them down a bit just to be sure. Also recommend replacing the coolant bolt & pipe at the back of the head. If you are using the standard cams I would suggest...

Check your ignition timing & do a compression test.

20,40,60 & 80 with the ARP studs on mine. Tightened to 85 after driving for about a week.

How can you be sure some of the water would not leak past the rings & end up in your oil, a real death sentence for your bearings?

Stock C/R should be 9.2:1. Here is my latest dyno. 128rwkw + 15% for our lower Aussie figure is around 197rwhp. Should gain some more when I have a high flow cat installed to replace my 18 year old Toyota one. I like my torque curve from 4500 to 6500 & how it pulls strongly in that rev...

Just wondering what is considered the most effective way to dyno a auto. With mine (7M Cressida) they always just use 2nd gear starting in a rev range just outside where it would kick down to 1st, usually around 3500rpm. Would it not be better to disconnect the auto kickdown cable so you...

Extend the slot in the dizzy to within a mm of the end. This picture is with the cams set at 0 & 0 with 15 degrees BTDC timing on a Aussie Cressida with the 264 cams. I have one of the early set of cams so dont know if the distrubutor drive gear being out of sync has been resolved in the...

Have you cleaned the idle speed control valve?