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Also just to make sure your on flat ground right?

And your point is? There are multi clutch setups for the 7m but no one over 800hp is willing to keep the r154. The r154 breaks after 7-800hp. This is not a clutch or flywheel problem its a too much torque problem. There is not a problem with a supra engine reaching over 1000hp ts drive line...

To me its looks like no2 blew more than anything. The coolant and combustion rings on no5 and 6 look pretty good compared to most bhg. You caught it way early if it was blown. I caught my ge way early and it was way worse than that. I had no over heating or coolant lose, just a some what...

I get backfires with out problems and usually its a rich condition. But yes a water temp sensor will cause problems but it depends which one, which in his case is the one for his ecu since its throwing a code, but this was happening before the water temp sensor code but it could be the wiring...

Ebay all day for under 200$.

True but you dont have very much room at all and it would be hard to find some new studs.

Very clean looking car and sorry about the miss haps. So the sand wasnt enough and the engine ran? DAM him if soo lol.

A 2j in a car it didnt come in plug and play right.... You could always get longer studs, Buddy just messed up his rad cause missing nuts on the water pump. Half of the threads is not enough.

Off??? Do explain?

A ct wont get much past 400hp. It s a very reliable turbo tho as i have 45k on mine with zero shaft play at stock boost levels tho. You always want to build for more than you want for the safety/ piece of mind insurance.

Just make sure the threads are the right size and your fine. Stock sensor goes by resistance so yes its accurate but the stock gauge means jack as it can be at the same spot but be at like 240*f which is past the safe point.

A couple of my friends have that turbo and they say its good but for me i wouldnt go that route. Id get something that of quality and has been proven for years. I have a 57trim ct at 8psi and its great but i really would like more power but i dont have the mods/money to get more.

I would say just go with a fully built ct setup and go from there. If you build for 700hp with a upgraded ct you will be set for any track/xcross and spend less money since you have all the parts to do a mild ct setup.

Make sure you have the right threads. You want the temp sensor before the t-stat and rad because if its mounted in the middle of rad hose you will get lower temp readings and you want actual temp readings.

Actually pretty much all you need to know is on those 2 sites. For one the hac sensor is not needed on 89+ 7m ecu's as its built in. Sure you can do it as you did to n/a sc's and mk4's but it is not the right way, Your always going to be adding fuel as the n/a ecu will never have enough fuel...

The amount of flywheel bolts and the torque it takes to break a tranny are 2 different things. Kinda like a car and a family, there 2 different things.

Nice!.

Well a extra inch of length in a bolt is a lot of threads to be adding.

If you are going turbo it is useless to wire in the n/a harness and ecu. You should either use a 7mgte ecu/harness/ sensors or go with 2jzgte electronics. Wiring a n/a ecu/harness into a turbo engine is a waste of time.

Ya there have been a few people that have broken fresh r154's before 800 even. I for one would like to see a video of this.