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70 billion bhp.

The water pump gaskets ive used are just gasket unless its got some clear sealer. Sealed fine last time i did one on a buddy car.

When you can rest your door open on another car 3+ ft away.

On the entire seal or just in the corners? On my old n/a i never had a problem with new stock gaskets other than the bolts coming lose. On my turbo motor i have a problem with the hex bolts filling the spark plug galley. Could be the valve cover gaskets tho took there hard but the bolts are...

Had to do it one time in the dirt because of a frozen starter. Pain in the ass. At least we had a fork lift to do all the work. Took a few trys tho.

If you buy new seals no need for fipg except where the tsrm says so. Like on the valve cover gaskets you want a little bit on the corners in the front on the first cam cap. Not much is needed of fipg on the 7m other than the valve covers in the front, the 2 spots for the rear timing cover, and...

Sounds like something on that would happen from sf shit talking.

Usually you just get a cheap universal kit and and cut and weld. Or if you dont have a welder and cut mark and take to a welder. Nothing really out there for bolt on. There used to be cooleze which was expensive and he had a long waiting time and then screwed people and went out of business.

Even if it was a stock rad you could get it repaired for like 20 less so why bother repairing when new would be better. Alum rads are a different story and not something to skimp on.

I have that setup and for me its got too much body roll with stock sway bars. The drop isnt enough either even with height adjustable shocks. The coil over sleeves suck balls dont waste your money. Might as well just save for cheap coil overs.

^Would ahve to agree. Other than that you can either get an upgraded pressure plate with stock clutch disc. The disk is cheap. Or get a reman pp and a 6 puck disc. Either way is about the same with the same result.

:rofl:

Dont worry about back pressure. Its kinda an old skool myth. Get 3in for turbo cars. Above 5-600hp get 3.5-4in. Turbos like big free flowing exhausts.

Well the main thing you should be woried about is your crank beairngs. Whats worse some cheap out side parts or a rebuild?

Usually a puller. I wouldn't try any light weight pulley. No point.

Fluid changes and how worn the diff is would be needed in this calculation and almost impossible unless you started off with a new/rebuilt diff.

Ive only seen the 2 bottom pics.

I wouldnt trust an aftermarket crank pulley other than a ati. Better hope that didnt screw with your crank bearings. Also light wieght pulleys do not provide the balancing they need to have. If your looking for power gains from them you should look at other places for that.

Are you south side of the border socal?

Mine get stuck and majority of the time its 3rd reverse sometimes forth and if that doesnt work. I left the clutch go, clutch in and then slowly hold it in reverse with small amount of pressure till it pops in. Both my r154's did the same thing. Iirc the shifter bushing is not in the epc at...