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They all crack. It would be better to spend the money in to welding and bracing your 89 subframe than buying a another used one.

Pressure test the cooling system and rad cap. Sounds like the cap and t stat. Also you shouldnt be waiting till the gauge goes into the red to fill it up. Thats a good way to blow your hg. Also by the time its in the red your engine is way way hotter than it should be.

Better to make sure you have the wiring first or else its going to be a major pain. Almost everything you need you could find at the junkyards for around 100$ except for the trans.

51 is tps sensor. Prolly needs to be adjusted which is why your idle sucks. Did you use shielded wire when you did the rewire?

Should always check what code it is when it comes on. I use a paper clip to check them. When you reset the ecu the ecu ahs to relearn its values so it takes a little bit for it do that thats why the idle was lower. Also adjusting the cps to raise your idle is stupid because now your timing is...

Center support bearing really toast maybe.

Its a lot different than a reg braking system because of the fact that it pulses the brakes 10x a sec. Something your foot cant do. Nothing different in braking technology for standard non abs cars from our car to new cars. Also if you want to hide things there is a lot of space in the rear...

Ya the ecu does not control lights other than the check engine light. You have a power problem. Take out the multi meter and start at the battery.

What about head lights and interior lights? 7m ecu's dont just go bad. Is the ecu plugged in all the way along with the other connectors down there.

Highly doubt its the ecu. Its very rare for a 7m ecu to go bad without user error. Check to make sure the little blue wire is connected to the battery positive. Also check all your fuses.

When the engine gets hot it pulls from the overflow. When it cools back down it puts some back in. Thats not a huge amount either. So if its pouring out like when you get a bhg then something is wrong. If it was just a little bit then its prolly from being over filled.

Seems normal if your n/a. N/a gear ration is 4.30:1. Its your valve stem seals. I used to go 80 all the time in my n/a for hours at 3600rpm. Never once burned oil from that. My seals went and it would smoke for a lil like that until kinda warm but if i drove it like that it would burn like...

Lol true that. Aaron is a great guy to do business with.

Needs to be machined to 30ra or better.

Bad caliper prolly. If the trans is in neutral the clutch wouldn't matter.

Yes you need the fuel pump resistor. Do you have the grounds on the intake manifold?

I think you need to look at it. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291220/part.aspx?S=89462 There is no designation for turbo and n/a. Both work on both engines.

Looks like oil. You can also smell the smoke and if its a real sweet smell then its coolant. Are you consuming any oil? Coolant?

Get the 57trim.

You have to be moving some what to turn the wheel without governator arms. Not impossible but hard. Wouldnt go without it.