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Also could be no3 valve cover hex plugs.

Oil cooler is a lot smaller than the radiator and it does not always have hot fluid flowing through it so it has time to cool down with the wind. A condenser that is clogged with debris in the fins can effect airflow on the radiator. The oil cooler is right up front No blockage except debris...

Not hating. But seems like a waste to me just to do it over again. Might as well get a 3in in and out muffler since there about the same price.

Either you have a n/a tube or there is something wrong. The bolt is in the right spot but the stick should be behind the ic piping.

Reverse is straight cut gears with no syncro. Not like shifting in to all the other gears. Try 3rd or 4th then to reverse. If that doesnt work, let it go of the clutch, push in and then go reverse. Whats the fluid condition? You sure the system is bleed all the way?

No it mounts on the hole right below it.

There is a thread around here somewhere on what every exhaust sounds like with youtube videos. 1. ditch the stock elbow and get full dp. 2. do 3in turbo back. Bigger if you have a shit ton of power. No point in upgrading the exhaust only to have 2.25in anywhere in the exhaust.

Ya and its threaded. Should be on the block off plate above where the cool lines are. In this pic it is the plate(not there) that is on top. If yours doesn't have it you have the wrong plate.

Shouldnt need any with stock gaskets as long as the surface is good.

A lot people run probes with no problems.

On the side on the cartidge. Right on the coolant block off plate.

Did you ground both sides of the shielded wire? Only supposed to do 1.

Ecu uses water temp not oil temp so unless the the water temp was drastically changed, which it shouldn't because of the coolant t stat, than that shouldn't matter. But you want your oil temps to be at a certain temp, so running a lower temp stat would not necessarily be good.

That does not look like its even close for our cars unless you have to cut to fit. For 250$ id rather spend half that and get every hose in reg rubber.

You can use the 7m wiring harness, sensors and ecu to run the 2j. Would be better to send out the harness to use the 2jz ecu tho. Just need 89+ motor mounts. Also this is more of a 1j/2j/other section question. There is also a lot of info in there regarding this.

Ya stock bolts have green loctite. I just tighten them really tight. Never had a problem with reusing them.

Deleting the stock oil cooler wouldnt do much other than allowing better flow to the bearings but with a little hotter temps. As you know go full flow.

Either the surface was not cleaned enough or the surface is not flat. Remove and inspect and possibly replace.

Based on whats said before paying 70 for a gauge that will last 2 months is insane. Go with something that will last. Auto meter has a sit ton of a selection. prosprot are cheap. Pick something that will last.

Lol. ok. The 89 one would be better to start off with than the 88 tho.