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Get a tester gauge that you use for testing purposes and goes where the stock sender is. Should be able to rent one from kragen or autozone.

Those had a headgasket recall.

If with you rebuilding it it still isnt right since your not balancing it, Turbos spin up to or more than 100,000 rpm.

Only sport package n/a will have a lsd. You need to swap out the whole diff for a lsd from a turbo car or a sport package n/a. They say lsd on the rear cover and if you lift the rear wheels up and spin 1 tire the other should go the same way. If they go different ways then you open. And...

You could just send the ct to get upgraded to a 57trim. Mine was done at performance technique in riverside,ca about 55k or 4 years ago. Usually for about 5-600$ Personally i would stay away from the ebay shit and the cx racing shit. After that there is the sp61 which is bolt on and the boss...

Its actually looks like shit unless you want your tails black. Better to get professionally tinted. That way you also dont get the spray can look when you look up close and there is no need for sanding and clearing.

Ya its cause there 20+ years old and have taken a extreme amount of abuse. If you really wanted to you could try finding a non cracked housing. Most guys try to use those when upgrading them.

Mk4 rears are also a tad bigger and dual piston. More efficient. Also the bias will be where it should if you do the rears and then you dont have to modify and anything other than doing the rear brakes. No adjustments.

Just run it. As long as the cracks arent holes you should be fine. Mine had like 5 small cracks and held 10psi fine. Its pretty common and most ct's have them.

Use mk4 rears. For all new with ebc redshift is about 600. Pads from kragen and rotors and calipers from napa. Sc should be the same. It's not direct bolt on but really close.

Have to get the jdm ones for that.

Look up shaeffs build thread. He had his reinforced really well. If it broke off on the lower mounts i would start off with a good 89+ one.

Sure the clearince was right? Did you just replace the bearings or actually get the right ones? What about oil pump driveshaft? motor mounts? Does it smoke?

Neither has to have coolant running through it but it might idle like shit if you live in cold climates when the engine is cold. Would need to loop the lines correctly in order to bypass both. Iac coolant lines would way easier to install with the engine out of the car too.

Or for moneys sake use a stock oil cooler. What is the idle at? and what does the stock oil gauge do?

One of the lines goes up under the manifold to the idle speed control valve. It will have coolant going through it and the other end should go to the throttle body. Really should ditch the entire hydrofan water pump. Its big and bulky. Have the take off the timing belt to do that and might...

7m definably has more torque but the 1jz is just soo much smoother and is way better on gas.

Be better to use like a 3072 and a 40r then even bother with the stock ct. Quick spool valve would be easier too.

Try and get a better pic.

Got to go to trader joes and fresh and easy.