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The wheels are prolly not centered. Some quality spacers. http://www.ichibausa.com/ http://www.ichibausa.com/supra86981.html

Could have effected the wiring. &m's can get quite a bit of heat through them. But as any engine right after you load it up like crazy and run high rpms for some time. I would make sure there is 12v going to the starter. The noise you are prolly hearing is the starter gear hitting the ring...

Sounds more like a dead battery or starter. Or possibly the starter wiring circuit.

Have ya checked the fuses?

Ah. Didnt know they were the same. Didnt read that far.

You can start by telling us if the check engine light is on with the key in the on position or if you have any stored codes.

capictor or condensor stores electrical charge. Noise filter is kinda like for static on a radio.

On the rear? 285 or 295 would have fixed that. 315 is a massive tire. Also the tire brand and model sometimes look different, Some 265 35 conti in my garage look bigger than some junk 285 also in my garage.

PRetty sure all cressy have front sump oil pan. Meaning you need the pump too. An upgrade would also be in order or atleast i think it should be since the ge pump doesnt flow as much.

Iirc n/a pistons are a bit weaker. Id just keep the turbo pistons and run more boost. Could also run a slightly thinner hg and raise the comp to like 8.7:1 or so.

I would forget about looking for the cheapest person. GO to the person with the most experiance with 7m's if possible. Expect to pay atleast 1k including a valve job. Valve job is usually around 600. About 25$ a valve and we have 24...

No there is one that is external and replaceable on the 7m harness. It bolts to like where the igniter is.

Yes. Its just flashes and flashes and flashes at the same rate forever if there are no codes.

2j harness or 7m harness? Which one are you using that is? I didnt use it on my 1jz. Its to keep the frequency of the electrical system from causing interference.

First and foremost. Look for the best machine shop even if 3 hours away. Take the engine apart. then bring him Block head and all internals. Done need to take the head apart. And if using the same pistons dont need to take the rods off the pistons. He wont need any bearings either. You...

Or you could buy a couple 90* bend pipe and a aem dry flow filter. Little more expensive than the dm kit but a much better filter.

Those are just xxr 521 18x10 +25 all around with i believe a 20mm spacer in the rear and prolly a 10 or 15 in the front. TIres are prolly 265 or 255.

Generally when you take the crank to the machine shop along with the head block rods and pistons, he will tell you if it needs standard or 10/20 over. Then you double check his work with plastigauge. Keep the cap side thrust washers out until final torqueing...