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TPS, timing, or boost leak. I thought I had checked my hoses properly a few times, and eventually found that the one I missed/couldn't reach was the one causing my problems.

I'm another 26 yo who is in between this whole war and just want to voice my opinion. I'm caught in the middle watching the less mature of the 16-20 crowd(the JDM tyte boys) get into it with the less mature of the 32-40 crowd(the 'we are older so you better listen' types). Not all of either...

Oh how I miss the simple days of the C64 and Amiga 500. Just makes me appreciate my Comcast connection even more.

Mine will hesitate a little, maybe have to crank for an extra second or two. But as soon as she catches she'll idle up to about 1200, and once she's warm she runs better than in the summer.

I guess you never used a 2400 baud modem? Those were the days.

I'll get 17-19 city and 23-25 highway. Now that it's winter city drops to about 14-16 because of warm up. I live 3 miles round trip from work and it takes longer to warm up(was 24 out this morning) than it does to drive to work.

Does sound like a bad/off TPS. The 7M TPS is finicky about how it's aligned. After doing the BHG and starter wiring, the TPS on mine turned out to be bad, showing the same symptoms. It ran so rich you could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust as well.

Thanks, I'm still not 100% up on turbo systems yet. +1 to Loki.

When I first got mine and ran 10w30 it would idle at about 10 psi or less and max at around 30. Now that I'm running 20w50 I idle at 20 and max 50.

We used to be able to parallel(sp?) park my 88 Hyundai Excel spots by getting a person at each wheel well and lifting it into place.

Just curious, what advantage is there to having a boost controller and shimming the wastegate? I thought shimming was just the 'poor mans boost controller'?

Possibly an unbalanced tire. I used to have major headaches getting the tires on my Celica balanced. Always had to bring it back 2-3 times, and changing tires at least once a year it got rather annoying. It would vibrate the steering wheel like mad.

I would have to say grounding issues. Redo the battery - to chassis ground with some 4 gauge(the copper wire from Home Depot is fine for this and is way cheaper than audio shop wire) and double check the headlight wiring and replace where needed(it is almost 20 years old after all).

That's exactly what I was looking for. < $150(the closeout colors), stock style, able to handle larger amounts of boost. I'll end up with one of those, or the Forge Motorsport Fast Road Closed Loop. As for the 'check the reviews' comments, I did. The 5 products reviewed don't even start to...

Thanks, but I already did. I don't want a list of what's out there, just what people have used and would suggest to others, what to avoid, and possibly where to buy(I was probably going to buy a Forge Motorsport from HPF). Exactly what I'm looking for. I don't want attention from ricers or...

I'm curious to hear what people think of different BOVs as my stock one is shot. I'm aiming for 350-400 hp when I'm done, but don't want to buy one that's fine for stock now and end up having to get another one later on. I'd like to keep it under $150, but any suggestions are welcome. I know...

Exactly. It takes time/gas to get the stuff there. Just like the closer you live to the cigarette manufacturers the cheaper they are(paying 20.99 a carton at the moment).

Turbo not getting oil/coolant like it should?

It's already under $2 here. I could see it getting that low after the holidays(demand will be too high to let it get lower for a few months).

Same here. Hamilton County smog test isn't hard to pass at all. All you need is a cat in place(they run a mirror under the car), have no check lights on(you could always reset right before you get there), and not have any major smoking issues.