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looks simply amazing!

thats whats i need-thanks alot. Now the problem is the 3 big holes in my fenderwell.......dunno what I am going to do-but thanks for the heads up!

i love the idea-I dont think there is anything ricer about it-whats the difference in that over painting and filling the bay-if you consider this ricer, then I would imagine painting a bay would be ricer also..... Good job on the work, well executed, however-I think you should do the entire bay...

i have them also, just using the 3.0 turbo part on my car though, no "A". I think they shouldnt be reproduced, but thats just me.....I am sure they will one day anyways, just like everything else. I also got mine from ebay-just took a while.

close up of the fastners used-all stainless steel mounted from inside the fenderwell-it gave me a VERY hard time to mount the bolts back there-no room at all-small hands do help here. I wanted to make it where I can remove the mount by removing the 3 bolts, this way I can remove the filter...

another angle:

The other project I tackled today-mounting the oil filter relocation bracket where the ABS used to be.

In the end, you will need 2 mounts, 6 extra 7/16th bolts, 6 7/16ths nuts, a 7/16ths drill bit, an afternoon to work with, and basic handtools. The mount should prove better than the factory mount with a little more of a rough ride. The mount should reduce the engine flex-I cant budge the engine...

finished product on the passenger side:

Now you can bolt the mount and the torque plate together, and lower the engine completely.

Only after you finish tightening the torque plate, loosely install the mount onto the bracket on the engine using the center mounting hole on the mount. I forgot to mention that you want to do both mounts at the same time, so you can lower the engine evenly.

now onto the installation-jack up the engine and remove the factory mounts. Then install the torque plate onto the subframe and tighten down the bolt and nut. Its a good idea to mock up the entire mount to make sure it all fits properly first, and to mark where you will have to tighten the...

This is how it looks put together-now it makes sense!

close up of the torque plate-the hole I drilled was 7/16 wide to match the bolt. Dont go bigger than this-you want the bolt to fit tight.

you also have to grind down where the bolt head will sit for the mount. I found that a dremel works best for this.

now the first step-grind down the 2 humps on the bottom of the mount to make it sit flush like the one on the right. Then take the torque plate that comes with it, and drill your hole for the bottom bolt that secures the mount on the crossmember. The holes are offset-so use your factory mount...

One more-

Impreza,the hood is painted(tinted)-lol. As you guys may have guessed, I didnt finish by the 15th of this month-I was slacking. More info on the motor mounts now. Stock mounts compared to the Poly mounts-for a while I thought they would not fit....

Custom motor mounts for ~$40?!?! You better believe it. I got the idea from Yannis's twin turbo build-he is using these mounts to mount his 7M in him MK2. Here are the specs on the mounts-Energy suspension polyurethane rear transmission mounts for GM models(vetts, camaros, etc.) Heres the...

Jake- the thread pitch for the oil feed on the block is 12x1.25-trust me on this one-I had to order mine (12x1.25 to -4) from Mazworx in orlando(straight fitting, no adaptor). For the water neck hole on the top of the water neck(by the cold start injector time switch), i just drilled and tapped...