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Hey all, I'm replacing my HG after it started leaking. So while cleaning up the head I had it inverted and was rotating the cam to get the valves out of the way when i heard a delicate, metallic *plink* two times. Given that I wasn't listening for it I'm not sure of where it came from but the...

Nope. it's a pressure port and it's blocked off on all 7Ms. It could be used as a supply but the port by the thermostat neck is more convenient, IMO.

The Gen II is not the second generation of the MAFT Pro... it's the next evolution of the original MAFT line. It has many of the features of the MAFT Pro, but is missing a few too including boost control and the ability to run speed/density (without an air flow meter). As for a Grand National...

You're making this very complicated. Generic? eh? Post some links so I can see what you're talking about... All you need is to go to www.maftpro.com (or wherever) buy a MAFT Pro (not someone's kit with extra stuff added) and then go source your sensors and harness connectors..... buying the SD...

The MAFT Pro and MAFT Gen II are not vehicle specific devices. The only thing I can think of which would merit such a designation would be the inclusion of plug-n-play harnesses. I know nothing about the existence of knock-off MAFT units... I'll leave this to be answered by someone else.

Well, then start tracing the circuit. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=070 I'd inspect the wiring to the flasher relay. Have you worked on anything prior to this happening? BTW, the only thing the horn and hazards share is their power source; Same fuse.

The manual's equivalent is the clutch start switch.

True, if it's completely shot the valve will never open; But they can fail in such a way that the problem is intermittent... my last one did. A bypass is a cheap and easy diagnostic as Lewis mentioned.

If you mean the charcoal canister, yes.

Here's a pic of the VSV and actuator/diaphragm: Here's how to bypass it: Bypass the VSV and diaphragm and see if your heat is restored.

Have you tried testing or swapping the flasher relay?

I was dragged off track by YourEnemy's bringing up the CPS... my bad. And you don't know it yet, but you're a fool for telling JJ to shove off.

Have you tried resetting the factory alarm? Close all the doors and hood, lock the door with the key, wait a few seconds and the "Security" light on the dash should light up, now unlock with the key.

Up yours! ;) OP, I agree with the others, wrench or a 6 point socket... absolutely no 12 point sockets!

There do exist add-on nipples for just this purpose... but, sadly, I'm having a hell of a time finding the vendor I found previously. They're easy enough, a nipple with a flange at one end and threads and washer to lock it down; The other end has a bead or conventional hose barb. Someone's...

Sure there is... right beneath the rotor. Actually, the N/A's distributor *could* be used in place of the GTE's CPS in a pinch.

She probably never drove at night and always forgot to use her signals... that or her mechanic just replaced which ever one was burned out that she just didn't notice and never mentioned it.

You could install a fuel controller now... you'll use it with the turbo and you can use it to squeeze out a whopping additional 2HP out of the N/A! Seriously though, I'd do brakes and suspension first, then fueling upgrades (fuel controller, AFPR, injectors, fuel pump)... these can be used on...

You're fine. As Jeff said, they'll all the same electrically... same plug and same pinout.

You're not even swapping the TPS? Then yes, you're fine. otherwise you just need to make sure the tabs in each TPS is clocked the same way. Seriously people, this isn't as big of a deal as most seem to think.