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On the GE it doesn't run to the ECU. On the GTE it does: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=48 Yes, the port is just an inch or so back from the thermostat neck.

I sold my MKIII about a year ago; White with a black hood from a black donor car (no, not for the pseudo-CF look, just had other things to spend money on). Now I drive a Signal Yellow MKII MR-2. I swear I received a LOT more scrutiny when driving my MKIII when it was all white (with a dented...

I wouldn't delete the stock sender. The ECU does read it but I'm not sure to what degree a missing signal would affect it. There is another pressure port just forward of the stock pressure sender's port and the same size which is just plugged from the factory, That one has my vote.

Nope. It's so easy I'd feel stupid just for posting a how-to on it. ;) Seriously, it's easy: (Magnet+glue+shifterarm)+(reed switch interrupting wires to clutch switch+glue and piece of scrap metal or plastic+hot glue) = Super badass (James Bond would be jealous and Q scratching his m.f'ing...

For a momentary solution that's fairly stealth you could add a reed switch to the clutch safety switch. Mount a magnet to the shifter and then mount the reed so you have to have the transmission in a specific gear to start. IE: You hop in put the key in the ignition, step on the clutch pedal...

My EL gauges were dimmer than I wanted and my CC selection indicator LEDs were brighter, the rest I thought was just right. I remember that the green wire on one of the ribbons inside could be used to dim one set of the LEDs but I think it may have been the back lighting and not the selection LEDs.

The seal could have been defective or pinched or torn during installation. The builder may not have put RTV where specified as well. If it were coming from lower down I'd be worried about the rear timing plate nit having been cut to match the head.

If you want something pre-made there is an Apex'i kit with a 4" adapter flange... only run you about $125. It was only available with the whole kit last I checked. It's listed by them as a "Universal".

Bleed valves aren't that bad and they're far less prone to spikes than ball/spring setups. Every other kind of controller (aside for adding a second spring to the wastegate or adding a restriction to the signal line) operate on that principle. An EBC is an electronically controlled bleed...

AEM Dryflow here... and on my former MKIII. Half the cost of the Apex'i and filters as well (if not better). So, Sparky... 310K eh? Damn man... only about another 500K and you'll be caught up with the LandCruiser. ;)

No, but send me a PM with some details about what you're having trouble with anyway.

Yes, it works fine; Just use zip ties to clamp the hose at the end of all the lines.

Aww.... Not back, still rocking the SW20 but figured I'd check in (bored as hell owning a RELIABLE car ;) )... I've been meaning to call you. Long time no hear. Give me a call when you have a chance (or perhaps an email... my cell phone service has been HORRIBLE the past couple months.... I'm...

Nope. Do the dash indicators work? If yes then check the other system grounds; The indicator lights have their own ground. Did you also check the HAZ-Horn fuse? http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=070

I've bought a ton of hose and couplers from siliconeintakes.com and have always been happy with their product and their prices... and they're somewhat local, so they get here real quick. :D

Disconnecting the waste gate actuator arm isn't going to do anything, you need to push the arm out as far as it will go and them clamp the push rod at the actuator bell to keep the arm extended. The short of what you'd need to do is pull spark advance (timing) and tune (thus add a fuel...

Wow... good thing I didn't start talking about my large, stuffed box. :naughty:

Heh, actually, nevermind. I was going through the other parts which arrived today and there in the middle was a small envelope with the snap rings that were probably supposed to have been packed with the pistons. :D

Hey all, I'm rebuilding my engine and need new wrist pins for the lower compression pistons I'm installing. My local dealership just told me it's going to take at least a week to get them! :3d_frown: I figured others must have been through this but I can't find anything in a search...

D'oh! Didn't even think of that... I didn't pull one washer out before putting the valve covers on. I guess if I pull them and there are two sitting there I can breathe easy. LOL Thanks for pointing out what should have been obvious. :D