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This is an awesome project, man. If- when you're done, this thing looks almost totally stock, I think it'll be one of the coolest sleepers I've ever read about. :biglaugh:

Well, that's the thing- it does have high pressure when cold, but drops below my comfort level once its warm, about 30psi max at 3500 rpm, steady state driving. I would really like to see at least 15 psi higher in that situation. My plan is to replace the oil pump and piston oil squirters. For...

I see you're in GA. I know that Jarco Corp. does rebuilds, and I think they can redo them w/ a metal headgasket.

I have a set of those in .020 over sitting in the box. I went with Probe's myself. However- Sethron- you call them teflon coated- is that what it is? because mine has the same coating but they were described as anodized crowns, not teflon.

Yeah- I didn't think you could put such large injectors on a Lexus MAF.

I think that was the plate. A dark blue 87-88. You passed me on I-75 south, up around Windy Hill. Just wondering, because it sounded pretty good. :icon_bigg

If you lift it, you'll blow out two discs. If you only blow out one, it's a W58. :biglaugh: The R154 has two black inspection/ access covers, one on each side of the bellhousing. The W58 has none. That's the most obvious visual difference.

Haven't seen this thread in awhile. Awesome resurrection on the 'Phoenix' ! ::salute::

Dude- Check where the fuel line banjo's into the connector down by the driver's side engine mount. I left mine loose and made a puddle after my engine swap. Then I found the fuel line was loose up where the fuel pulsation dampner banjo's in. I'm an idiot. : )

LMAO! :yelrotflm Hell, for $200+, get an aluminum 2 row core radiator.

Well, if it only misses under boost, I think you do have a gap problem.

Well, I had Turbo Dave do my Intercooler piping and exhaust fabrication, and I can say that his work is pretty good, on that end, don't know about swap work. My only problem with my setup is that he ran the piping up under the headlight instead of the side(OEM) entry, which makes it a real...

What's NTI? I'm in Mooresville every so often.

I didn't see you mention in the thread, but how old are the wires? Maybe check the resistance on them, and more importantly, check to make sure the boots that go onto the plugs are completely DRY. Any oil/water/coolant that gets on them can make the wires ground to the cylinder head instead of...

There is a diagnostic procedure in the TSRM I believe. I also know that the supermonitor runs trouble codes for the CC.

I ran the 4.3 non-LSD for about a year, and didn't notice any difference in acceleration when I switched to 3.9 LSD. But I was ready to sacrifice a bit of off-the-line acceleration in exchange for lower highway rpm's, just didn't feel a change.

Check your cold start injector. it might be stuck open, or incorrectly told to open by a bad temp sensor? That would make it run richer.

Um, I think you pretty much mentioned most of what could be wrong. New accordian hoses are relatively cheap. Also check to make sure the afm harness is tight. Also, why do you have NO oil pressure?

Well, that's news to me. I thought abs and non-abs hubs were the exact same size, and therefore the discs as well. If we're talking 1-2mm, then I would THINK you could have the discs machined, but that's kinda playing with fire, you know? why not source a set of hubs that fit them?

Wired my FAL's to two separate relays, run by a temp sensor threaded into the bvsv postion. They come on at around 205, and shut off around 195. I also have a manual override. I plan on moving the temp sensor into the bottom of the radiator though, for better temp readings. when the coolant...