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Hey guys- I just picked up a T-4 manifold from a guy. He says he bought it a few years ago from NOPI, and it's brand new. Problem is, I'm not sure what size wastegate will bolt to it. The manifold is a HKS log style, like the 'Treadstone' units made now, though I don't know the manufacturer...

So, as it turns out, Skip's car already had a rewire job, and it looks like it was done pretty well. The only thing was, one of the plugs *might* have been soldered poorly, as it came off when we were checking it. Unfortunately, we couldn't make use of the original pin, although we definately...

Well, I was told it could be a source of clunking. I've got a clunk in the rear anytime I go throttle on, or throttle off. I've checked the rear subframe, the bushings, replaced the diff itself, the driveshaft is a one-piece, so I'm running out of ideas. I plan to replace all rear bushings...

Will let you know tomorrow.

I have used an oem type head gasket with ARP's, and it held just fine. But as mentioned, you never know the condition on something that's been bolted together for 91,000 miles.

Well, my name is Diego, and I'll give you a text or call on Thursday afternoon if I can come up there. Ps- for the rewire, you want to get some good coax wire, but not like home cable coax- that stuff is too thick and un-flexible.

Whats that red crap wrapped around the boost controller?

And do I understand correctly, that if that spherical bearing goes bad, it makes a clunking sound just like a bad diff? I'm asking, because I think I have to replace both of mine.

I could help, possibly Thurs. or Fri., but not sure till then. Code 52 is easy to fix with a rewire, takes about 1 hr to so it right. Code 11 is sometimes triggered by a bad ground at the back of the intake maifold.

Today I pulled the Supra out of retirement, charged its battery and replaced the faulty clutch master. I began driving my '86 MR2, about three months ago; it had been sitting for about 12 years. I rebuilt the engine, and put on new shocks, brakes, wheels and tires, sound system and alarm, and...

I did about 10 of them last year, in blue, red, white and even amber, including the temp displays. Problem was, there's no profit in it. It cracked me up that people would try to sell oem climate controls on Ebay for $150, and I could only sell a converted model for $75. Oh well.

I have nylon subframe bushings, and they transmit alot of differential noise. I intend to go back in, and cut the spacers down slightly to allow the use of the original rubber bushings with them, to absorb some noise. this will still allow the rear to be tight.

I'm here in Lawrenceville. I'm over in Kennesaw a couple times each month- lemme know.

I bought a set of nylon bushings from Becauseican, but they are too harsh- let in too much rearend noise. I plan to cut them to half thickness and just use them as shims for the stock bushings.

$200? Why don't i EVER get a bargain like that.

331,000 miles, and she is officially retired to the garage for full restoration. DD is now the '86 MR2, withy 125,000 miles.

I say this in every single "it won't start " thread: It's the CPS...Ok- I'm not always right, but I usually am. :) You say it's installed correctly- how did you come by this certainty? Do as Iboughtasupra says- check injectors and spark. However- If that does not solve the issue, try this...

He's back in GA. I talked with him the other day, and I'm going to try to make it as well, but I'll probably come in my AW11 instead of the MkIII, since it fits better with the MkII supra's, and everybody's seen my crummy '88 anyway. :)

Update- Today, I finally got install the rear motor mount, re-bled the clutch(much better), charged the A/C, insured and tagged the car. For the first time since Bill Clinton was President, the MR2 is road legal and roadworthy. The only work i still want to do to it, is: Tint the windows Get...

Looks like there's a slight bend, or kink to the line just after that fitting. If at all possible, I would straighten the top of the brake line first, then maybe see if I could get a jewler's flat screwdriver tip under the edge of the nail and pull it up.