Any of the forged pistons will rattle when cold as they're typically 5+ thou clearance compared to 1>2 for cast.
It's MUCH better these days as Forged used to run 8>10 and sounded like a diesel at idle ;)
Just have to be very careful with the centre electrode and make sure you don't touch it.
A point on IR plugs if you crank the boost up you can get plug overheating and a high rpm miss.
Make sure they dump the Oil and refill BEFORE they crank it a single time as that coolany pooled in the cylinder will leak by the rings into the pan and WILL kill your bearings in minutes!
Sandy: Check on the Toyota World site for prices it's just the big arse heater fitting on the back of the head!
If you're NOT getting both the block and head correctly surfaced you're wasting your time fitting a MHG you'd be far better off with a Composite one.
BowTie: There are 100's of little things I do while working on a motor not all of them have anything to do with performance but just make life easier down the track.
I do most of them without thinking and only really notice when friends comment during assembly or during a bench racing/building...
Update to this thread/topic!
Personally I won't use the PermaTex Brake Quiet on any gasket that uses a Fluorine/Viton rubber coating as there are ingredients in the BQ that don't play well with the Rubber coating.
Stock gap is something like .040" but once you bump the boost you need to pull it back a bit.
Each motor is different try it at .028" and see how it goes.
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