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JJ: The vacuum leak thing was what i was inquiring. I figured it was the lean condition, After i thought about it i don't know why i posted that.

Crazy: So it was holding the throttle body open at a constant engine speed? Definitely a strange occurrence, though different from a surging issue. Never would think a TPS would rust holding the throttle plate open. Jetjock: I understand it would cause a major lean condition from unmetered air...

Crazy: Your problem was likely a vacuum leak, The surging is the TCCS limiting idle speed (fuel cut) so the engine does not idle at too high of an RPM. The TPS has a switch in it to tell the TCCS when its supposed to be at idle. Unplugging the TPS opened those contacts stopping the TCCS from...

Me too.

Well as far as a stock vehicle IMO this car would even need an oil cooler just like most other factory cars. The reason the cooler is of acceptable size and design is because anything more is not required. The factory cooler circuit bleeds oil over 40psi to the cooler. Its designed this way...

What did you touch before having the problem? Any Codes?

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Mine took a little while to die after cleaning. Hopefully you wont have the same results, But mine would freak out in rainy weather. Up untill one day i got nothing from it.

Exhaust leak possibly also, i had an exhaust leak from the EGR block off plate i made on the exhaust manifold. Distinct tapping sound.

Well considering the size of the cooler and the way the cooler circuit operates it doesn't have the ability to cool very much. It also returns the oil directly to the pan rather then to the engine. Its borderline useless. Full flow cooler circuit with a thermostat should be adapted to any...

Not to mention the oil lines are pretty stiff........

Doesnt seem fine to me. Also, five degrees BTDC is closer to ten degrees BTDC then twenty degrees BTDC, and if i were in that situation id stick with 5 untill its sorted out. Advanced timing will not cause a rich condition, the backfire is most likely a missfire from such advanced timing...

Check Fluid level if not already. If the shift pattern goes L- First gear, 2 - Third gear, D - Overdrive. Then you have nothing controlling the solenoids. I had to shift this way before hooking up the SSv4. Check for Tranny Codes...

if its set up the way the stock cooler is set up, throw it anywhere itll fit, doesn't do much anyway. you could even remove it if you want.

Generally speaking in regards to an engine built for the power level, i wouldn't go above 15-16psi or so without race fuel or methanol. This is because if you get a batch of shit fuel, a really hot day, hot spot in the cylinder or any number of factors that would promote detonation it could get...

The leak was post turbo, The leak wouldn't increase lag, if anything it would reduce it. He was hitting fuel cut but at a much higher then stated boost pressure.

Looks awesome, Nice match on the black car!

Your using the stock gauge? That gauge takes about a full 2 seconds to register boost. You were spiking to a higher boost pressure. Turbos work off of a pressure ratio across the turbine wheel. The wastegate spring is calibrated for the proper boost level for a stock car. When there is less...

Ebay isnt a company, its a place where company's or individuals sell things. Youll need to be more specific on what manifold your speaking of. Sethron sells manifolds in the 600-1000 dollar range depending on witch style you want. No place sells a new sethron manifold for less then he does...

Well, again the AFM isnt whats holding you back, its the TCCS and fuel system. if you want more boost run 50psi base fuel pressure and pull out alot more fuel on the safc, that will get the results you want.