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Ready made $12

You need some wire a high current momentary switch and some terminals There is a 4mm wire that plugs into the starter if you apply 12v there it will crank, it draws quite a bit of current so a good switch is needed.

The lower tube may be missing so when you put the stick back in after it's been running the Oil that's dripping down the inside of the crankcase drips onto the stick higher up as you pull it back out to read it. There is NO way that you can be showing more Oil after it's been running if...

I'm guessing he's just pulling the stick and looking at it after its ran and splashed Oil everywhere instead of wiping it and redipping.

It should be checked cold before the car has started to get an accurate reading.

The "positive ventilation crankcase" system? ;)

Pinion bearings were really expensive as well ;)

On a side note that was 4000km's on Green coolant, change to Toyota Red 0 pitting on the deck.

It was +40 so that trashed it :(

^ Won't come up with oil ;)

Ummm yes

Couple of screws 2 plugs 1 bios change and it's done.....

This highlights my earlier post about piggybacks fighting the ECU, thanks for posting MmmB.

Ant: Most things, just waiting for some software so I can start my motor :)

Modesty? Isn't that something that people who don't own a 9"IRS have? ;) <jk>

I'd unscrew the old HDD and plug it into the new PC boot it up and copy the files then put the HDD back.

Rob: Don't you have a 1jz to rebuild? ;)

Just in case anyone thinks I'm insane or talking shit about this issue here's one I prepared a few years back ;) The brown stain is where the rings have never touched in 4000 km's.

It pulls the cylinder wall making a spot about the size of a 1/4 that the rings can't touch losing compression and causing blowby (take the oil cap off and hold your hand on it idling to feel if there's pressure)

"Should" be 36ft/lbs