Search results

fstlane88 : more pics of your avatar and we'll help you more LOL

yes, do a brake job and THEN grid, or get spacers you won't know the TRUE tolerances until you do a brake job IMHO...

long head = one bad overheat and it warps and blows the HG... get a compression test done ASAP to rule it out and make you feel better, if it's bad or you just want to do preventative maintenance, do a MHG with ARP studs and be done with it... (might want to rebuild the head too as valve...

thought walbros wouldn't work with E85 anyway?

gas isn't cheap LOL

400 on pump, and a whole lot more on race gas sounds like fun... 400 is enough to take down a hell of a lot...

strut sounds fine... only thing I can think of is that you're laking brake fluid on that side so they saw a wet spot and thought blown coilover...

I understood it and I'll comment on the content (I have a LOT of IRC under my belt, and it gets VERY garbled....so I can understand damn near anyone...) Hydrogen boosting works great, and will see a good amount of effeciency gained from it. Diesel with hydrogen boosting works great...

they float to the inside (piston on the inside, pulls the caliper toward the vehicle to brake) if he has a stuck slide or soemthing it will effect pad wear and if he had brand new brake pads I bet he'd hit on both sides...

<=== stock shifter with marlin crawler bushings and TRD knob (it's weighted) it's great, plain and simple...

exactly... anyone can take recoil in that position... get it up at your shoulder aiming where it's supposed to be and we'll see...

the last guy gets scared ROFL

bash owns

you don't make 500hp until boost comes on anyway! hence the awesomeness of a turbo car!

until he does a brake job...

many of the people I've seent hat install upolstery have pretty damn strong hands as it HAS to be tight or it wears out prematurely...

mounts, center driveshaft bearing, diff, or u-joints... all of them could cause it, get under the car and find out...

look at the C4 vettes these days, they're getting to the same age and are actually in about the same price range as a MKIII...and they're getting pretty bad too... we're lucky enough that the electronics are pretty damn durable in our cars, as most other cars of this age and tech level half...

digimon came first bud... dunno about plug and play 1J injectors, but for 7M's you can use adapters...

ahem... I'll comment here. As your brake pads wear, the caliper will gradually move in since it's a sliding assembly. Brakes don't always wear evenly around the car, so more than likely that's the case... do a brake job on all four and I bet it hits on both fronts and maybe the back...