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venoms are stock injectors drilled out, and done VERY badly... they are all over the board usually and not worth the engine rebuild...

the great thing about a turbo car... you can have 500HP at the flick of a switch and stock power when you want to conserve gas...

taking the timing cover off is also a good way to have a nice nasty failure if a rock gets kicked up in there...

on a GTE you're not going above 40PSI stock... if you keep your A/C on (which bumps your idle) you'll be around 10PSI... even setting it to zero would help...

CT's are torque monsters because they spool so quick... MRSUPRA: is your turbo BB or non-BB?

same, but the area above the the cutoff is nearly black (especially with the fog lamps off) I made all new blinders for the fog lamsp that where longer to clear the HID's...

I wouldn't care either... just make sure you have those thrust washers made in decent quanties so othere can test em... I want to do my own tranny rebuild, but marlin's service isn't too expensive and they replace any worn parts...

hinges on the MKIII are pretty stout, and yes there is a part that keeps the door where it's supposed to be on the targa cars (dunno how much it really helps flex) If you haven't already, retorque your subframe bolts! I got rid of a LOT of my targa shimmy by doing that...

or use the VVTi wasted spark coils (don't remember if it was 2J or 1J, but I think it was 2J) they're pretty much plug and play...

not really as the camera is garbage and it's pretty much auto everything. The cutoff is pretty good, not as good as a true projector but even with HID's it's less glare than a normal DOT sealed beam... fog lamps have a nice wide and low beam, didn't grab before and after pics of with and...

a product called chem dip will clean the head VERY well, but takes a hell of a long time and smells like fermaldahyde... on your head it's mostly clean, so it shouldn't take too long and it left the head shiney when done (only did half of my head before it went to machine shop) machine shop...

ok, since photobucket decided to stop being gay, here's a quick crappy pic

I agree, but MKIII's are coming up in price, so if I ever DO decide to sell I could get some cash out of it... But I doubt I'd get anywhere near what I've put into it (oh....over $8K...and not even close to done)

not as needed with forged pistons, and they're a oil system leak (more than likely they ran oil pressures close too what IJ runs ore more)

I prefure the RX-7 with the 2J that was a cover car years back...

it's on the part on the head (not the part you take off to change the t-stat) it's behind the bracket for the PS res.

I remember a post not too long ago about someone tearing down their tranny and finding sludge in the oil grooves in the thrust washer as well... could also contribute to the failure, but people that blow em over and over I'm thinking it's the case flaexing and banging. Good example. Hard...

well, I was originally going to use 6000K, but was sent the wrong kit. If I get my 6000K I'll see how them are and see if I like them. Sadly, Kelvin isn't a good standard to base the illumination or color on between various brands. Some OEM 4300K look the same as aftermarket 6000K...

I'm thinking the opposite here IJ, since you'd want a stronger block for the power and for racing... Would explain why N/A's got em first as well as type-a racing supposedly used N/A blocks (without oil squirters)

even MKIV's are auctioned off here since they're too old... I'd NEVER offer my car as trade in, but they've probably give me the same crap that it's too old. At least you can get them on a lot and with some warranty up there...