I live by the motto: if it breaks fix it right with either OEM or a better aftermarket part.
-Intercooler pipes cracking, went to hardpipes.
-Stock intake box won't fit with new IC pipes, new intake.
-Broken downpipe at the flex section, DDP.
-Cat's going out and the exhaust is rusting...
5 lug = 5 spokes
'nuff said...
Though I think it would look cooler with tuner wheels on it since it's kinda got the "two worlds collide" feel to it with the CF cowl induction hood. Though it really is their car in the end.
You can't do it anyway as the stock headbolts only use half of the drilled/tapped hole into the block while the studs have to go in all the way.
20 years of junk at the bottom of the holes doesn't allow them to go in easy.
Also, do not overtighten the studs, torque to the spec from ARP...
Yep, they have vehicles that drive around everywhere
If you scroll down you can see the car the camera is mounted to.
I think I found my car at work as I park near the back fo the parking lot, but the sun is pointed at the lense so I can't tell...
ok, I'll let the cat outta the bag...
remove the stupid silver paint off the back of the center piece, and cover up the holes in the backplate with electrical tape (or if your car is black it won't matter)
Remove the lense part carefully and soak it in castol super clean and get to...
I've only seen one blown bilstein... and it was from abuse (jumping a truck off a 6 foot drop and bottoming out the shock internally causing it to break)
or, be nice before you're to your destination and it will cool down faster.
The stock CT is water cooled and will still circulate after being turned off as long as you haven't been boosting horribly hard.
Not to also mention that modern oils won't coke in the turbo...
If you read the thread, they won't make the molds for them unless they have enough people to make it worth their while....
Hence why group-buys take place and are needed in our community. Or are you going to pay for the first 30 sets to be made yourself?
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