Search results

As the guys pointed out, we got torn down by a hacker with a bone to pick. We've rebuilt it to be better than before - we hope. If you've got any suggestions, throw 'em our way! The new software allows you to change your own user title to pretty much anything you want. The post count...

Shaolin Soccer was damn funny as well. I'm seriously thinking of checking out some of his other movies.

I'd keep it to .020 over for the first time - that way you can rebore your block three times if need be.

Agreed. These machines are quite capable. By the way, keep in mind that SOMETHING bent it in the first place. If you're running a whole lot of extra power, it sounds like it's time to invest in some reinforcements to stiffen that chassis.

Just saw this in the theatre. This is DAMN FINE. I'm still giggling, and I expect I will be for a few weeks. Toestepping! <snicker>

I'd seriously hesitate to use locktite - it's designed to be a lubricant at high temperatures. If a turbo doesn't qualify as a high temp, I don't know what would. Thanks for all the info, Tony, that looks to help a fair bit.

By the way, some research has given me the following info. The link for a place in Canada to buy the rebuild kit is dead - they closed their doors years ago. On the good side of things, ADP has since expanded into Canada, and has offices in both Ontario and BC. They sell a rebuild kit for...

Sounds like someone is bitter about this. Speaking from personal experience by any chance? :)

Dude, you rock. :)

Just a quick bump - these are on the way, folks. I'll post more when I see them.

I seem to recall a link to a Celica All-trac site that explained how to rebuild the CT26... but I'll be damned if I can find it, I've searched here and SF and Google... found some information on a rebuild kit, but that's all. Anyone have this handy and feel like sharing?

Mine is actually a honeycomb as well - it just looks like a screen in that photo. I have the same MAF, I think.

Yes, tried it both ways, seems to make zero difference.

Good plan. I'd love to hear his reaction when presented with another car that uses this successfully. Given the reactions to date, I fully expect him to bury his head in the sand and pretend you don't exist! :wtc: Seriously, though, it seems less of the "I don't wanna upgrade" syndrome...

Nope - but the Lexus flows 25% more air, we know that, so that should put it at about 5.15 square inches. Notice that it still doesn't compare to the smallest MAF... If anyone has a Lexus floating around, they could measure it for us.

FYI... Rod knock usually happens first at about 2500 rpm and as the engine transitions from load to decel or vise versa. And it's not normaly very loud to begin with, it'll get worse with age if it's rod knock - and mild cases will have no shavings in the oil.

Siman has nailed the question on everyone's tongue.... the first one looks nice!

:) No worries. Mine works great. I hit fuel cut at about 13.8 psi currently, and I can tune that up or down at will. The one thing that is odd... it sometimes takes longer to start now - like 4 or 5 tries, then it goes. With my AFM, it starts right away all the time. I may be able to...

Not yet. :) It's not really an issue, I just want to get mine working long enough that I can put it in the install instructions I am writing. Normally I'd tell people to avoid using the FCD feature anyhow, any halfway decent tuner can get the same power out of the thing by tuning the WOT...

Oh. My. God. Well, I'll give him this, he sticks to his guns. So, on to his points. The fine mesh screen in the MAF isn't an issue. First of all, it's constructed of a VERY fine mesh, so it doesn't block much, if at all. Second, it's not required - you can cut it out and sand down the...