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No. There should not be ANY issues with the alignment. I have the same combo (several MKIIIs) and have never had an issue. I have had techs try to tell me "we'll do what we can, because it's lowered" BS. Don't believe that mess. I use Firestone and their regular alignment (4 wheel) is...

The viton seals I got with an aftermarket gasket set are slightly different (just checked). There are 12 which are somewhat grey (gray) and 12 which appear "copper'ish." just a tad darker than the grey (gray). If yours all appear EXACTLY he same, then you should be allright.

Should be easy enough to do that. I used 3M spray adhesive. Make sure to tape up the plastitic and measure out the piece of fabric (bigger than needed). Then stick it on and tuck in/cut the excess. I had to do the targa leak fix, so I replaced my seals and Dynamated the targa while I was...

Some how-to info linked below. One of them said that they had 12 seals which used a dark brown rubber and the other 12 was black rubber. I dunno if that's the stock setup, but the ones I have at home are the viton ones as well and may be the same for intake and exhaust. Will let ya know...

I have 3 sets at home and can check 'em later and post what I find. I just did a quick search on SF and can't find the write-up where I thought I saw what the difference is.

Coming along quite well... I used Dynamat and did the same with my '91. We also Dynamated the wife's MKIV... agree with ya on not ever wanting to do it again (if we don't have to). Also, I did not see the targa, but I used a "crushed velvet" type of fabric on the headliner (after...

I did not think they are the same... For some reson, I believe that there is a minor color or length difference. I remember getting ready to do these myself on one of my 2J GE heads and somewhere on Supraforms MKIV section, they had a write-up that said something along these lines. I'd...

There's a similar pipe for the 2J and I had even thought about replacing it with a steel braided hose. When I put the single on my 2J, I had to plug a couple of the ports with the heater-hose-rubber-caps and I know they will eventually leak. So, I thought about finding a better way to reduce...

Dang Dude! You had some bad luck too! Call me if still haven't gotten in it...

Are you sure it's that hardline and not the hose at the back of the head? I'd never seen that hardline break/leak, but it's possible. Instead of all that other work, if you know the exact spot and can see the hole, it may be easier to wrap a piece of heater hose over it and clamp it.

It works fine for running the engine. The only thing will be that (if using the Aristo auto harness & ECU) it can still start in gear. The neutral start switch at the pedal ins not effective (unless you deliberately wire in). If you do decide to wire it in and enable the clutch pedal...

^^ Ha ha.... I had to do that with the AM1 and AM2 once and the wires I used began to smoke/catch fire when cranking... What I was saying is to just not to assume that even the non-mechanical stuff is working as it should. Be careful and good luck.

I recently had some no start issues and can feel your pain. I would also suggest that you replace those things in the circuit, which can affect or contribute to the symptoms. I replaced the Circuit Open Relay, EFI Main Relay, IGN fuses, EFI fuse and anything else that I thought could be the...

On my 86.5 and 87T, they sanded them down a bit and painted over 'em. I'd be interested in knowing what's worked for others (when repainting), since I am going to get the '91 repainted soon.

Me too... for the 2J anyways. Toyota won't fail you, but if anything I'd only use 'em in the hard-to-get-to places... Front main seal, oil pump seal, cam seals, and rear main seal... others can be from anywhere else (just about)...

Wow, I was hoping there'd be alot more info/replies by now. Looks like the IGSW continuity tested good, but no power is being sent to the ECU (from IG2) to get the main relay going (B/O wire coming from IGSW to ECU. It does have good continuity to the ECU. I changed out the IG and EFI...

I am having a similar issue with my ign switch possibly. By replacing the switch did you mean the tumbler/key porting or the switch/wiring behind it? What fixed your issue? Edit: Tested ignition switch according to TRSM (page BE-15) and continuity is good. Out of ideas now.

After messing with tucking away some of the aftermarket alarm wiring, I get a crank no start issue. No spark, fuel, etc. I am not getting the Main EFI relay to click, no CEL, no power to the ECU. There is power at the EFI fuse and relay... Just doesn't click/start the EFI system going...

I used the 3M weather sealant adhesive that comes in an orange box and it SUX! It's commonly found in the auto parts stores and I used it before, while in Florida and it worked great on my now-gone 87T. However, the same stuff which I bought here in TX, still has the tops leaking in our MK3...

I am getting ready to hook my CC up soon. Hadn't gotten around to it. Trying to picture what Freshmaker did, but I guess I need to be near the car to visualize it better.