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I have also been looking for some black direct-swaps, but have not heard of anything specific working. There are plenty of universal options, but they do not come with the electrical connector/sensor for the seatbelt warning light. They are usually about $35-$50 for a set of fronts. Another...

I try to gget an extra 1 or 2 of these types of connectors whenever I go to the junkyard. Will definitely look for it for ya, after I gget back. I have alot to catch up with, so please PM me if I haven't gotten back to you by Monday night... Cost should be minimal, but will let you know as...

Which connector, E9 or E10? I am almost sure that I have an E9 from an N/A and some of the pins/pigtails from the pins/wires I removed from the TT harness. You can install them into to gget the additionaal signals wired up. If no one else comes thru, I can send out late next week when I'm...

Label/mark the wires and splice in/solder a new set of connectors/pigtails. Only 1 side of the connection is available from Toyota (pigtails are additional) and I think it cost me over $10 when I did it years ago. Both sides of the plastic connector are needed, because sometimes the wires...

I really did not sense or notice the slack in the rear suspension, until after the new bushings were in. Then I could tell that the slack was gone. It may be that the stock bushings allow for some slack and the poly ones don't. I do think mine were wore out and the replacement made a bigger...

Like I said... had multiple alignments and the rear driver's seemed to be maxxed out. I replaced the stock bushings with the polyurethane ones and all seems well now. I did a simple write up on the process and posted it to the group buy thread. I can hear the diff. spinning up a bit...

Alignments have been good, but that rear, driver's side is at the very max limits... Springs/struts, poly bushings, etc... most of the suspension is almost new. Doesn't appear to have been hit in that area. The car had been hit in the passenger side front corner, but not anywhere near...

One of the guys on SF said that they shifted it "slightly" over. From what I saw when I loosened, it may be possible. I only need a millimeter or 2...

I loosened up the bolts and attempted to shift the SF a bit, but did not do any good. I received a set of SF poly bushings, thanks to George @ Raptor Racing!!!! Will be installing them early tomorrow and would really appreciate it if someone can post some pics, tips, or anything that would...

Here's an old pic of when I was 1st putting things together. Using a PS reservoir from a Lincoln Towncar. Located next to the fuse/junction box.

Cleaning up my sites/routines and this is one of 'em that's gonna get gone for a bit (won't be visiting often)... Gotta get a hold of me? My old friends or contacts, or for updates (Pics/threads/write ups), just let me know. Satan's contact info: Email G099521@yahoo.com ClubLexus.Com = g099521...

ARP... I did get an inexpensive set of OEM-replacement headbolts for a GE I'm rebuilding. Got 'em from a trusted seller on Ebay. However, I was rebuilding to stock specs, not high HP. I think to replace them w/stock Toyota ones would be as much as buying the ARPs, so it'd be silly not to...

FYI, most of the Lexus models have that connector. I got a couple of extras the last time I went to the junkyard... They came from GE engines. I removed enough of the wiring from my GTE harness (Trac/tranny wires), so that if I was missing a particular one, I could just re-pin using the extra...

I hear rattling in either position. I never have the windows anywhere inbetween. Just all the way up, or all the way down. Would definitely like a parts list to knock this issue out.... Maybe we could even do a write-up for replacing the pieces and adjusting the window (if there's not...

Sounds like the issue with mine as well, but $200 to fix? Which is the most expensive piece and are there ANY other options/alternatives?

Meant R134a retrofit kit. I'd recommend a new dryer/rcvr as well...

Okay, so the driver's side rear wheel sticks out slightly more than the opposite side. causing some slight rubbing issues. Anyways, seems that other may have the same type of condition... http://supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=551627 Also seems like it'd be easy enough to loosen...

ACKITS.com is where I've gotten alot of A/C pieces from and they seem to have all kinds of universal kits with barrier hose. Just had a hose place repair an A/C line for a friend and it only cost $42 US after taxes. The new hose is as good or better than the OEM one.

In my case, we also got the code 14 and car wouldn't start, but a friend of mine put an oscilliscope (sp?) on some of the ignitor wires and could see the IGF signal sometimes, while I was messing at the dash. I recently had it come back and think it has to do with a loose connection at the...

I've done the spring/strut swaps on 4 MKIIIs, 1 MKIV, and a few other cars. I know that the top cap and/or strut can travel very far, very fast (we tried it, just to see). Ain't claiming anything other than to not use effective, free, sensible safety/tools is a mistake. Our stock springs are...