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I'm telling you, try jiggling the wires at the dash/ECU connections as you try to start. Move 'em from side-to-side, separate them a bit. Just F with the connections a little. You may be surprised. It only takes that one signal, to keep spark from getting to the coils.

You will still re-use the top cap and bumpstops. ANYTIME you are working with springs, you need a spring compressor to keep things from flying... prevent damage? The only time I did not use the spring compressor, was when istalling the new springs on the rear struts. You can push down on...

The TRSM covers it starting on page FA-17 and RA-57. I re-used my old bumpstops once before, but I'd recommend replacing them all as well. They're gonna be pretty-beat-up. 1. Get the Autozone spring compressor from the tool loan program. 2. Loosen (with car weight still on the...

I get the code and the engine stops, because of a loose wire/connection athe the dash connectors. I think I fixed it this last time, but try wiggling the wires/connection at the dash connections and see if you have a similar issue.

Do a search for parallel flow condensor. I had one made and retrofitted to R134a. Posted all the specifics, in this same section (I believe).

I thought about doing a simple write up, for removing/replacing the manifold, but once you've done it, it's too easy. The 1st time I tried on the 1J, it took me over 7 hours. Yes, 7 hours! Mostly 'cause of that little Fing hidden 10mm bolt. After that, 2 hours max for removing/replacing...

Done it a few times and can remove/replace the manifold in about 90 minutes. The knock sensors are the worst 'cause even when you think you're pushing hard enough on the connector's release clip, the connector won't budge. So it takes alot of effort and patience and even long, bent needle nose...

Yeah... the sensors/wiring below have to be disconnected... Knock sensors, ground points, starter, A/C , and maybe a couple of others. Yeah, they're a PITA and I've thought the same things many times. If you plan to remove/replace the intake often, then yeah, I'd maybe cut and splice that...

TRD87T solved the issue with my old 1J, by replacing/bypassing the 1J fuel pulsation dampner... He tried everything else, but this was the problem-solver.

I have a free, stock set available off of my '91 if anyone wants 'em (pay shipping). Cut away at yours and have these ready, 'cause you're probably gonna need 'em, if attempting to lower. If it's just about removing them, DON'T. They are loaded with alot of pressure/tension when compressed...

Hey, My Supra for sale thread was locked 'cause I only had 1 pic in it. We washed it earlier and took pics. Once i have the pics available, what's the process to unlock? Thanks, Elvis

Tried to register on the DirectTech site, but you have to be an "installer." Dang it... was hoping to finish it tonight and tuck the module/wiring away tomorrow.

Autozone has them on the free loaner (w/deposit) program, so no excuse (dunno if it was mentioned earlier). Be extremely careful tho. they are not always the best and once, the compressors "slid" around the spring to the other side where the other compressor was at... Trapping and FLATTENING...

Aggggghhhh.... having an issue too. Spoke too soon. The passenger window will not work from either switch, with the key in the ignition. However once the key is removed, it moves as it should (up or down). When I arm the alarm the windows roll up as they should. So, now I'm worried that...

Yep... Seems like there are a few options for modules that are available, with similar features at about the same cost. No auto/one-touch down mod for the passenger window available yet, without using these types of aftermarket/add-on modules. Now I have an extra 529T (up/down for 1 window...

Changed the resistance on the module, for the driver's side window and works perfectly now. So, this is the way to go. It allows you to vent, auto-up/down for both windows, etc. It interfaces well with my DEI alarm, but only needs a couple of signals from the alarm, so may be easily used...

I played around with the faceplate to make sure. I also relooked at the wiring for the alarm/window module and made double-sure that the connections are good and protected. Seems like everything's fine now. I have the alarm, window module, and wiring still on the driver's side floor. Will...

Looks like all parts of a headset... seals, gaskets, o-rings for when you have some head work done. 1st pic = Top left baggy - Don't recongnize these, so must be for 7M somwhere... maybe waterpump? Top right baggy - Long rectangular gasket is for the EGR recirc cap at the very back of...

I just installed the DEI 530T (one touch window up/down module) over the weekend and was messing in the kickpanel area. So I am almost sure I did something there, since I hadn't had the issue in a loooong time. Going to mess with it tonight and see what I find. Thanks for the tips/ideas!

That's what I'm thinking.... where I will have to just trace it all back and make sure that a connection's not loose somewhere, or that the power wire is not coming into contact with ground somehow.