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The other thing that these are commonly used for is triggers sensor wires for an aftermarket alarm. In any case, I wouldn't worry about it. :)

8-9psi sounds rather low, I'd seriously suggest testing your intake for leaks.

Here you go, Tejon. http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/EPC/MKIII_NATO/291420/3101_2.html Everything shown between the clutch disc and the pressure plate is supposed to go on the disc side of the pressure plate. Everything else goes on the tranny side.

Let me clarify - the $1000 figure I mentioned is worst case for a head, IMO. I don't think you'll find many that need that much work, but I'm sure there are some out there in that kind of shape.

The funny thing is that those SRT4s are damn fast cars - they take to modding very well. But the mods that kid has listed are essentially nothing... put some bloody big injectors and a monster turbo on them, and they freaking GO. There's a local guy takes his out to the drag strip all the...

I'd do them one by one. To get the washers on, I use a long screwdriver. Put the washer over the screwdriver, hold it next to the handle, put the screwdriver tip on the stud and let the washer slide down onto the stud. ARP is the oddest bolt I have found - metric threads and imperial...

Of course not! The more the merrier. :)

He mentioned that adding oil fixed the pressure, so I think this is what happened.

Hopefully someone in the Government put out a hit on him, and he's now sleeping with the fishes. Of course, considering what a shitstorm Florida has been in recent months, it might not take a governement hit to kill him off!

Black and Silver.

Ha! Not likely. Someone sent it to me in email, so I thought I would share. :)

Holy shit was that funny - at least until about page 12. After that it gets old, and trying to interpret that fugly character's posts is tedious. But you can't help it - it's like watching a train wreck, only nobody gets killed.

The front is even easier. Pull the radiator and hoses, fan, front main pulley, timing belt covers, and then the timing belt pulley off the end of the crank. Peel out the old seal, put in the new one in the same manner as described above for the rear, bolt it all together (perferably with a new...

It's much easier to disconnect the wires from the distributor. :D

Agreed! Quite the good crew in here debating, I'm happy to say I'm quite impressed.

Accord -Axles Crack, Coolant Overflows, Radiator Drips ACURA -A Car Under Recall Action ACURA -Always Cursing Untimely Repair Appointments ACURA -Automobile Causes Ugly Road Accidents ACURA -Any Child Understands Real Automobiles ACURA -Another Case of a Useless Requested Acronym? he he...

I've seen this hood in person, and it's much better than the photos. :D

Tejon, you have an R154 - the pull type clutch, right? Did the fork slide into the correct spot on the throw bearing assembly? The slave piston should push one end of the fork. The fork pivots, so the other end pulls the pressure plate away from the engine...

Unfortunately, it depends on the condition of the head. If it's flat enough, then it'll be pretty cheap. If it's not, you might have to get it baked to remove the twist, then get the surface skimmed, new valve seals, etc, at which point you're looking at about $1000.

Welcome! Do not worry about your English, it's better than my French. I do not know the problem with your transmission, but there are many good people here, hopefully someone will be able to help.