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Speaking from the outside... it looks like a system that is trying to protect the educated class. I'm not entirely sure what the average level of education is for people who enlist in the USA, but maybe someone has decided that getting the uneducated class killed isn't a bad thing? Sounds...

You can just bypass it. It will work fine that way, the only time that valve closes is when you have the AC on full cold anyhow.

Heh... I used to have some pics of Ron's setup as well, but no longer. You might be able to dig them up if you're good with the search button on SF.

Agreed. The two likely culprits are the pressure lines to the turbo and the oil cooler.

Err... #2 ringland, piston surface, rings, stock headgasket, and #5 rod bearing was fried. And a radiator hose, the seals in my water pump, and something else that I can't recall offhand... I don't think the rod bearing was related, it had been like that for a while.

Really? As far as I knew, it's a slightly different design, but the technology is pretty much exactly the same.

I'll second that guess.

That is a heater control valve. It shuts off the flow of hot coolant to the heater core when you have the A/C on full cold. Many cars won't have these anymore, or they will be bypassed - the part wasn't terribly well designed and many of them have broken, preventing the owners from getting any...

Not entirely. My engine was in good shape - I was pushing it beyond what it should be able to take on purpose.

The starter trick works very well. Just don't rest the breaker bar on the wrong side of the engine bay... it'll swing around and smash the snot out of your battery / fuse area. If you don't have access to the starter anymore, your next best bet is an impact gun. Failing that, either put the...

Mine didn't blow up until 20psi on an upgraded CT. For several months. Of course, at that point it blew up rather completely. :)

Nice to know! I don't follow SF anymore, so I missed that. :)

Pics might help. IMO, if the head gasket were leaking oil at that point, you would have far worse problems to worry about than a leak. I agree on the valve cover gaskets though, mine have never leaked.

Yes, I've done this, and Ron has as well. Ron's is closer to stock than mine, he printed a new gauge face to match the stock gauges, I just mounted a black face Autometer gauge in the stock location. In over 2 years, I've never had anyone notice that this gauge isn't stock unless I pointed it...

Even if eBay did this, there would still be scammers. They'd just move to another product - cars are easy to trace, but there are many products that are not. Jewelry, watches, collectables... the list is literally endless. And the scammers don't stop trying, either. I'll gladly point out...

No you're not! It only counts if your engine runs! :D

As a matter of fact - here is the real owner. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/1386145

No, he's offering you the car if you pay him a $3000 deposit. If you were to proceed, you would find that the 'ebay escrow' service he is using is likely a look-a-like page created by him to steal your money, he'll get $3000 and you'll get to keep some pictures of a 350z that he borrowed off...

That or the coupler from the 3000 pipe to the throttle body. That's the second most prone to cracking. The other thing to check is your wastegate - if the spring in it is broken, the wastegate will be constantly open, making it very difficult to build any boost at all. This is pretty simple...

There is an adjusting nut on the engine side of the throttle cable.