With our wasted spark system, 180 degrees out doesn't matter, so that's not it. It seems to get worse when you open the throttle, so it's rather unlikely that it's the throttle plate, either.
The things that I would check are cam alignment - are they both lined up properly? And are they both...
Here's a sneaky little trick for when you are preparing to buy a new car. Stop by a couple of the local parts stores and ask them what to avoid by finding out what cars keep ordering replacement parts.
I've heard reports that Will Neely could peel the teeth off the stock gears at will, with just under 750 trq.
Someone from Aussie land - IJ, I think, once reported on a company doing straight cut or dog toothed gears, not sure which, it's been a long time.
I enjoyed this. It didn't have any sparking bullets! :)
They left a fair bit of technology out, dropped the effective range of expert snipers... and they substantially reduced the number of expert snipers on the planet.
Still, overall a good flick.
I've long thought that we need some way to transfer information from a thread that gets hashed out until we all agree to a more permanent record.
Furthermore, this permanent record needs to be mirrored several times in different places, so that we don't have a single point of failure that could...
Yup. It's tough to get the bolt remains out if you've snapped the bolt, but it can be done. It's a lot easier to take it to a machine shop and let them deal with it.
If you've stripped the threads, you'll have to retap it one size bigger and use a larger bolt. You could look into helicoiling...
Well, I moved to the HPF Feramic as my next clutch, but I don't have enough miles on it to speak for it's longevity. Everything else appears to be awesome.
Good information, JJ. Now I wonder if it is the same thing that I'd heard about... but chances are it is.
I didn't really pay *that* much attention when I heard about it, as my Supra came to me already refitted with 134a, so why would I really care?
If Freeze 12 is the stuff I think it is, it's better than 134a because it doesn't require new seals when upgrading from R12. If it's not the stuff I'm thinking of, there is a newish (couple years old) refrigerant out that works better than R134a.
Meh, it shouldn't have any measurable effect on your mileage, not unless you are shifting every couple seconds like the F&F movies.
The only time it will cause you to run rich is when it opens during a shift under boost. Might cause the occasional pop or stall at worst, and even that's unlikely.
That's pretty easy.... start with an '89 Supra Hardtop.
Pull everything out / off of it.
Throw most of that out.
Upgrade everything that's left.
Buy new / improved versions of everything you threw out. (Anyone feel like explaining the difference between a CT-26 and a T-88?)
Put it all back...
Congratulations, I know it's been a long road. When people start giving my car the hairy eyeball at meets, it's been too long since Duane was there. Or Don. Or Jeremy. Or Randy. Or... damn it! ;)
Also, you need to check it for air... turn it all the way one way, hold it there for a few seconds, then all the way the other way, hold it, repeat several times.
Have someone keep an eye on the level in the reservoir during the process, and add fluid if it starts to drop.
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