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^Yeah, most folks are probably looking for something to fit a "Hobbiest's" needs. Those are nice though! :)

Quite a bit; but, here's the major stuff: Rebuild Tranny - All Marlin Crawler Stuff Replace Clutch - ACT XTSS Replace Bearings - Haven't done this yet since my BHG I already miss her. ;)

Very nice FIL!!

Here are a couple of pics of where I stopped this evening. At this point, all fluids are out along with some of the peripheral stuff up top. A little ways to go yet...

Today is the beginning of pulling the motor. Rather than list all of my plans, I'll just update as I go. I don't have a completion date; but, don't plan to lolly-gag. :) Ok...on to the pics... Pic #1 - Safety!! Here are my Wheel Chocks...

And with some PCV tubing, a firing chamber, and a potato........you've got yourself a sweet ignitor! 3...2...1...LAUNCH!!!! :biglaugh:

This is probably your problem. No more heat transfer...

supra90turbo: As long as you can get replacement tips and heating elements, it's a good buy. It'd be nice to have some sort of temperature indicator though. I run mine at 800*F most of the time. I only run it hotter for EXTREMELY large jobs. 800-850 usually gets the job done.

Have you cleaned the tip of the iron? Wet a sponge and then ring it out. After the soldering iron is nice and hot, drag the tip of the iron across the sponge. This should leave you with a clean tip. If the tip is too bad, lightly (I stress LIGHTLY) scrape it clean with an exacto knife or...

You saw that too?! Yeah...as Duke Nuke'm would've said....."Ooooo....what a mess". :biglaugh:

Yep. Pull the driveshaft. I saw pics of tranny destruction from someone that towed a supra. :3d_frown:

Here's what I use. It's a Hako 936. It's the Non-ESD version. I picked it up from Fry's for ~70 bucks. Excuse my bench. This is my personal bench at home so I don't have to keep this one clean... ;)

Jeff: If I PM you my vin, would you decode it for me? Thx...

BEFORE: AFTER:

I'm not contradicting the above post here; but, I changed out rod bearings in my 87 without pulling the motor. I dropped the subframe down on to a couple of jack stands and this allowed enough room to pull the pan and change them out. It wasn't all that bad. Pulling the motor isn't too bad...

Sounds like you're golden. You just need to decide what to do....take pics....and then post them up! ;) Good luck and let us know how it all goes!

$1k for that is robbery! $750 is more of a common price. I paid $700 w/ a full gasket set. That was delivered too. I got it through a relative's shop. Gotta love the Wholesale Price hook up! Yeah, if I was doing it, I would at least put rod bearings in. I would inspect the bottom half...

The hose in question connects to a nub on the firewall and routes coolant to your heater core. When you turn the car off the ISC should make a clicking noise. Open your hood, roll down your window, start the car, get out and close the door, reach in and turn the car off, then stick your head...

Clevite Rod Bearings ~16 bucks from Summit. Since you're dealing with a 159k engine, I'd skip the OEM bearings. Unless there's unusual wear or the crank has been ground, STD's should work fine. How can you go wrong?! You can mic everything and even though I'm not a huge fan, use some...

The same way you posted your pics up here except post the link in to the 'Sig' editor under 'UserCP'. So go start sporting one of these bad boys! Heck....you could sport them both! :biglaugh: