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5sp or auto? Autos can break the flex plate and sound like rod knock...

The nice ones are guys that decide to get out of the game, try to sell their cars whole, and after a month of lowball offers realize that they can get more money by parting it out. Sad, but what can you do? When you have $15k invested in your car, and you can't get more than $7k for it, well...

How did you get it to boost that high? This is a critical piece of information...

There are some things that happen in this world that we just don't want to know about. This is on the list.

I remember circuit city, but I'm sure there's a few of them. I'm looking for online prices that I can use as leverage to force the retailers in Canada to price match, now that the Canadian dollar is so strong. And considering that I only live 2 hours from Seattle, I can drive down and pick up...

Awesome - you'll be back up and running in no time then. :D

I don't remember the cost offhand, but it was a lot cheaper than Toyota. If I ever end up needed new shims, I'll be sure to check. :)

Ok, now I have to weigh in with a bit more reality again. Vista does not suck. It's not awesome, and it has driver issues still, nearly a year after it was code complete. Even so, it is not terrible. I'm playing Team Fortress 2 right now, on Vista, in 1920x1200 mode, at over 60fps. And it's...

Errr... WTF? Fuel Cut can be caused by several factors. AFR, fuel delivery, and age are NOT on the list.

You need two people to bleed it, or a speedbleeder. Procedure is simple - open bleeder on the slave, push pedal down, close bleeder, lift pedal, repeat until you get no bubbles coming out of the bleeder anymore. I'd replace both parts at the same time, replace one and you're just going to be...

This everyone you speak of, is full of shit. It is possible to make Vista perform decently for games... but it's a PITA, and it's easier to just buy faster hardware.

Really? When did they start producing a wireless option? I want.

Agreed. Thrust washer makes the damn tranny pop back out of first all the time.

How much power are you putting out? Anyone significantly over stock will chew through the mounts in no time flat, brand new or not. The only way to check is to unbolt the bottom and use a cherry picker to lift up the engine a bit.

You can buy them from Yamaha as well. When they designed the head, they just reused some parts they already had. Of course, they don't list parts for a Supra, you have to find out what bike engine used them, and I'll be damned if I can remember which one it was...

Pull it out and wrap the threads with teflon tape?

It's so nice to have the OPTION. My wife's Explorer was broken into last week, the thief busted out the driver's side lock, destroying the lock cylinder and doing some damage to the door panel at the same time. We took it in to Ford to be fixed today, turns out half the parts are discontinued...

Are you still on a stock CT26 turbo? If so, sounds like you need a boost leak tester. If not, you may actually be hitting FC for real.

I use jewelers screwdrivers to compress the tab, then pull on both halves with pliers.

Perfect weather for Turbos. :)